As I understand, chrome plating is not susceptible of being 'stripped' with a chemical 'paint stripper' ... I just stripped some powdercoated parts (primary cover and cam cover) and scuffed up the aluminum parts with sandpaper ....

That gives them a similar appearance to chrome plating that has been scuffed up with scotchbrite ....

I have not tried scuffing up any of my chrome (intentionally) by using scotchbrite ... although I am contemplating it with my rocker boxes ....

A couple of other notes ... while you might be able to restore most of the luster to chrome (undo the scuffing) ... I don't think it would ever be 100% reversed ....

It is true that aluminum oxidizes and gives the surface a white powder appearance ... the ferrous content of steel oxidizes giving it a reddish appearance ("rust" colored) ....

R/
'Chop

 

Certainly not one you can buy over the counter. I was looking into buying a chroming business last year and the guy was giving me a walk-through. To strip the parts, they use muriatic acid.

You can read some more here: http://forum.caswellplating.com/elec...ve-chrome.html

 

http://www.cyrilhuzeblog.com/2010/01...-chrome-parts/ I did my ram air with a pad and it turned out good. You need to keep the strokes in the same direction.

 

Muriatic acid can be purchaed over the counter at any pool supply store.

Warning though, the stuff is NASTY and the fumes can be overpowering. I would not recommend trying this at home.

 

You're absolutely 100% correct regarding purchasing the acid OTC.

I had initially put "sulfuric" instead when I wrote that. I failed at fully editing my post.

I also agree I wouldn't try it at home either.

I wonder if soaking the part in question in some DOT3/4 brake fluid would eat the chrome off? It sure eats the heck out of everything else. lol

 

this was one of my fav winter mods to my bike, i did my headlight ring, headlight visor, upper chrome shock covers, and tailllight and signals on my fxdb.
the scotchbrite took way too long, so i used 320 wet sandpaper ( dry) and a scuff wheel on my cordless drill. it worked great!! left some parts a little rough so i went back over them with a green scuff pad. one spot i burned past the chrome into the copper on the taillamp.. you MUST keep the same direction, or it will look like crap..
good luck on it!!

 

took some pics today if anyone cares..



in hind sight.. i realize that the 320 grit paper cut the chrome really fast, but theres a few spots where i went too agressive and burned into the copper coat underneath.. only time will tell, wonder how it will age?? wanted to p/c them, but didn't feel like spending any $ on them...

 

a little WD40 with scotch bright works well on the shinney aluminum parts. I went over my fork slidders and triple trees with a clear coat, but it didn't hold very well. ended up scotch brighting it off and leaving it to oxidize, I kinda like the weathered look anyway. Now I'm in Arizona instad of the Pac NW so shouldn't oxidize much more.