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2010 Dyna Brake Pad Falling Off while riding

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Old Oct 12, 2019 | 09:09 PM
  #11  
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Yes fixed

i changed the 2 metal clips in the cailper

About 40-50$ i think
 
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Old Dec 26, 2019 | 04:16 PM
  #12  
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Default I am puzzled

Recently my rear outer brake pad fell out of my 2010 super glide. Initially I thought it was incorrect fitment of the pad. On closer inspection and a few measurements I discovered that the wheel had worked its way so far to the left that the rotor had worn the bracket that holds the caliper so much that it had to be replaced. Mechanic at dealership thought that the wheel had 'walked' to the left on the bearing. He replaced the bracket and new set of wheel bearings.
200km later and rotor has already worn a significant amount out of the new bracket. (see pic) So back to the dealers again. They think it might be the hub.
I cannot understand how the wheel can move on the bearing.. especially twice.

Yes the spacers are on the correct side.

The bike has done 19000kms. Never had a problem until recently. The bike has not been in an accident nor has it ever been dropped or hit.

​​​I am very interested to hear if anyone else has had this problem.

Thanks in advance!!


​​​
 
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Old Dec 27, 2019 | 12:01 AM
  #13  
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just had a look at mine. Looks like I have the same problem, 92000kms.

Can see the wear on the rotor

Will take it off tomorrow

might have something to do with alignment or swingarm?
 

Last edited by mirrmu; Dec 27, 2019 at 12:03 AM.
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Old Dec 27, 2019 | 03:44 AM
  #14  
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Yeah right.... I am definitely starting to think it is the engine alignment, seems to make sense too. Page 2 - 31 and 32 if you have a manual.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2019 | 08:08 AM
  #15  
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Engine, trans, swingarm, wheel, disk and caliper all move as a unit, right? So, changing the alignment shouldn't affect this, I would think...
 
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Old Dec 27, 2019 | 10:58 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by John CC
Engine, trans, swingarm, wheel, disk and caliper all move as a unit, right? So, changing the alignment shouldn't affect this, I would think...
Assuming the axle parts are all right & tight, yes, they move as a unit. One could poorly assemble/align the rear wheel assembly (hub, rim, pulley, rotor, spacers, etc) and cause all sorts of nastiness, tho.

The most recent concerned poster mentions the axle spacers are correct... Well, maybe, but something ain't lined up. If I used the "correct" spacers on my bike, the wheel would be bound up solid. I'm custom, sure, but the same principles apply. Poorly installed bearings could be enough to push the rotor out of spec. while still using all the "correct" parts.

Is the caliper bracket clinched up tight once the axle is torqued?
If so, is it straight?
If so, is the rotor parallel to and centered in the caliper?

I'm betting "no" to at least one of those questions.
 

Last edited by cggorman; Dec 27, 2019 at 11:00 AM.
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Old Dec 27, 2019 | 06:47 PM
  #17  
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Holy thread resurrection, Batman!
 
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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 04:29 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by cggorman
Assuming the axle parts are all right & tight, yes, they move as a unit. One could poorly assemble/align the rear wheel assembly (hub, rim, pulley, rotor, spacers, etc) and cause all sorts of nastiness, tho.

The most recent concerned poster mentions the axle spacers are correct... Well, maybe, but something ain't lined up. If I used the "correct" spacers on my bike, the wheel would be bound up solid. I'm custom, sure, but the same principles apply. Poorly installed bearings could be enough to push the rotor out of spec. while still using all the "correct" parts.

Is the caliper bracket clinched up tight once the axle is torqued?
If so, is it straight?
If so, is the rotor parallel to and centered in the caliper?

I'm betting "no" to at least one of those questions.
thanks for info

something not right

i do my own servicing like taking wheel off, changing tires etc. Have always done the axle alignment when re-installed

what else should I note


 
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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 03:56 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cggorman
Assuming the axle parts are all right & tight, yes, they move as a unit. One could poorly assemble/align the rear wheel assembly (hub, rim, pulley, rotor, spacers, etc) and cause all sorts of nastiness, tho.

The most recent concerned poster mentions the axle spacers are correct... Well, maybe, but something ain't lined up. If I used the "correct" spacers on my bike, the wheel would be bound up solid. I'm custom, sure, but the same principles apply. Poorly installed bearings could be enough to push the rotor out of spec. while still using all the "correct" parts.

Is the caliper bracket clinched up tight once the axle is torqued?
If so, is it straight?
If so, is the rotor parallel to and centered in the caliper?

I'm betting "no" to at least one of those questions.

Everything you say makes sense and is valid.
What is confusing me is how my bike did 19000kms without a problem..
I took the wheel off for a tyre change at about 17000. I marked the exact position of the wheel before I removed it. Obviously I only removed the axle and loosened tensioner bolts. I am 100% the wheel was back in exact same position as it was for the previous 17000.
Back pad fell out at 19000. I took it to the dealer specifically for this problem. I am assuming the mechanic at HD can install a rear wheel correctly.
I really am confused. Seems like such a straight forward exercise to install the rear wheel .

Thank's mate
 
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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 04:37 PM
  #20  
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Dealership techs are just people. Some are careful and knowledgeable. Some don't know **** and care even less. Most are punching the clock.

Come at them with a problem that will take time and thought to sort out and the odds are stacked against ya.

Unfortunately, it's hard to diagnose some things remotely.

Measure and eyeball everything carefully and the problem should make itself known.
 
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