Front Axle - FXDB
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 791
Likes: 1
From: New Hampshire
Front Axle - FXDB
Paranoia is setting in here folks.
I have searched and read a lot of posts about this issue, but I just want to re-check that my own thought process is sound here - I trust this HD forum community implicitly, so please read and respond:
I removed my front wheel this past winter while my bike was in storage, to re-coat the lower forks black. On a lift, I removed everything carefully, tied the brake caliper off to the handlebars out of the way, and painted.
I reinstalled the front wheel per the manual procedure, but did not use a torque wrench. I followed the procedure in the manual; tightened down the axle nut, then put the fork end cap on the opposite down tube, and tightened first the rear nut, then the front as far as it would go before stripping out. Again, I used no torque wrench.
The source of my paranoia is NOT with whether or not the axle is too loose....but rather too tight - is that even possible? I know the wheel spins via the bearings on the axle, so it should really not matter if the axle is too tight...I mean CAN it be too tight? What would be the adverse effects?
Once I had everything done up, I spun the wheel and it spun freely....after adding the caliper back on, it still spun freely, but the brake pad rubbing was audible, but the brake pads are brand new - 1st set since the bike was new.
Am I okay here? Bike rides smoothly, and no wobble or instability at high speeds or low speeds.
I have noticed my gas mileage seems to be down, but I have been zipping around all over backroads and not much highway, and I did get a code thrown for O2 sensor, but it cleared.
Help me out all......
The
I have searched and read a lot of posts about this issue, but I just want to re-check that my own thought process is sound here - I trust this HD forum community implicitly, so please read and respond:
I removed my front wheel this past winter while my bike was in storage, to re-coat the lower forks black. On a lift, I removed everything carefully, tied the brake caliper off to the handlebars out of the way, and painted.
I reinstalled the front wheel per the manual procedure, but did not use a torque wrench. I followed the procedure in the manual; tightened down the axle nut, then put the fork end cap on the opposite down tube, and tightened first the rear nut, then the front as far as it would go before stripping out. Again, I used no torque wrench.
The source of my paranoia is NOT with whether or not the axle is too loose....but rather too tight - is that even possible? I know the wheel spins via the bearings on the axle, so it should really not matter if the axle is too tight...I mean CAN it be too tight? What would be the adverse effects?
Once I had everything done up, I spun the wheel and it spun freely....after adding the caliper back on, it still spun freely, but the brake pad rubbing was audible, but the brake pads are brand new - 1st set since the bike was new.
Am I okay here? Bike rides smoothly, and no wobble or instability at high speeds or low speeds.
I have noticed my gas mileage seems to be down, but I have been zipping around all over backroads and not much highway, and I did get a code thrown for O2 sensor, but it cleared.
Help me out all......
The
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 69
From: Bay Area, NorCal
Good advice, 'cuz there are a lot more "critical fasteners" on the bike that you eventually will need to torque by specs and not by feel. Otherwise you will always be second-guessing yourself, or even worse, have a mechanical failure at the most inopportune time. Spend the few bucks and get a t-wrench, you'll be glad you did. Hope that helps.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,309
Likes: 6,328
From: Honah Lee
If you followed like you say, it's not too tight. Use the brakes a few times and when the pads get dusted and smooth that will still hit and rub slightly but will make little noise. (Not over exhaust and rode noise anyway) When I had a spoke wheel I could here mine slightly when I pushed it out of the garage because I had about .002 wobble runout. My cast wheel is dead true and with stock pads I only here just rear a slight whisper drag which is normal for disk breaks. When I put them on new a while back I heard what you are hearing.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 351
Likes: 2
If you over tighten the axle nut you can cause bearing failure even if you feel the wheel spins smoothly, conversely if you do not torque the axle enough then the bearings could fail due to side loads. The axle should be supported by the lower fork cap when you torque the axle nut. The lower fork cap also has a raised portion that should be installed towards the rear and a 7/16 drill installed in the axle, the fork leg gently pulled against it and then tightened, the rear bolt first and then the front one. Do yourself a favor and replace the lower stainless steel bolts with some steel ones, the SS hex strip out very easily.
Last edited by dynabobster; May 3, 2011 at 12:01 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 601
Likes: 0
From: Texas Nomad
Dude just bought a torque wrench from sears for 54.99 on sale.
Its not on sale anymore but one thing I've learned and to quote fear and loathing in Las Vegas.
"If a thing like this is worth doing at all, it's worth doing right." (even though he was talking about drugs)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=1304449480949
Its not on sale anymore but one thing I've learned and to quote fear and loathing in Las Vegas.
"If a thing like this is worth doing at all, it's worth doing right." (even though he was talking about drugs)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=1304449480949
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