Troubleshooting Via Video
ORIGINAL: Z
Whiff,
I can't say with certainty because I'm no expect on your bike's electrical system, but if you're getting a spark when you reconnect your negative battery cable with the switch off, then (obviously) something is still drawing power. How big is the spark? Do you have a clock or any other accessory that runs when the switch is off? I get no spark at all on my 98 Wide Glide, but things could be different on newer model Dynas. It'd be interesting to see if the battery goes dead after a sitting for a few days, which would be a strong indicator of a short, all things considered. How sure are you of the correlation between installing your apes and the beginning of this problem?
Whiff,
I can't say with certainty because I'm no expect on your bike's electrical system, but if you're getting a spark when you reconnect your negative battery cable with the switch off, then (obviously) something is still drawing power. How big is the spark? Do you have a clock or any other accessory that runs when the switch is off? I get no spark at all on my 98 Wide Glide, but things could be different on newer model Dynas. It'd be interesting to see if the battery goes dead after a sitting for a few days, which would be a strong indicator of a short, all things considered. How sure are you of the correlation between installing your apes and the beginning of this problem?
I did switch my burnt headlight to a PIAA, however, it is totally within specs according to the box (55/60) and was, of course, just a simple plug in deal. Not to divert attention from what probably is the real problem, but, this did start happening two days after the PIAA replacement bulb was installed. While troubleshooting the first occurence a couple of weeks ago, I put the old bulb back in, messed with the switch wiring, replaced the fuse and it turned over. After a few days, I put the PIAA back in. Road it for about a week and now it's crapping out again. The PIAA really couldn't be the culprit I don't think, but, damn if the evidence doesn't point to it.

Whiff
Whiff;
Diagram B-43, manual, shows 4, 15 amp fuses. Number 6 in the overal fuse box on 8-11 states this is the engine control fuse. If you look at the b-13 diagram it appears this fuse is in direct line with handle bar starter switch. If the handle bar is making contact with that switch it will blow fuse.
Diagram B-43, manual, shows 4, 15 amp fuses. Number 6 in the overal fuse box on 8-11 states this is the engine control fuse. If you look at the b-13 diagram it appears this fuse is in direct line with handle bar starter switch. If the handle bar is making contact with that switch it will blow fuse.
I think I may have to take your word for that. I'm looking at the diagram and can't make heads or tails of it. If so, I can't thank you enough, man, for the actual confirmation. I'll pull it apart tomorrow.
Whiff
Whiff
Whiff;
Think I made a mistake. The engine contol fuse is directly in line with the ignition switch. It goes directy to the intake actuator solenoid and then to the ECM. What you need to do is on page 8-11 identify the fuse. Open to the shematic section and this will direct you to ignition schematic. Find fuse, if it is the control designation will be CTL. Follow color coded wires and follow. They may lead to another component like the selonoid. Follow wire out.
What I did last time was confuse ignition switch with starter switch. If it is the control fuse I think I would look for changes made to the ECM. Maybe a component not installed properly.
Sorry if I mislead you earlier. Hope you get this before starting to take apart handlebars.
Think I made a mistake. The engine contol fuse is directly in line with the ignition switch. It goes directy to the intake actuator solenoid and then to the ECM. What you need to do is on page 8-11 identify the fuse. Open to the shematic section and this will direct you to ignition schematic. Find fuse, if it is the control designation will be CTL. Follow color coded wires and follow. They may lead to another component like the selonoid. Follow wire out.
What I did last time was confuse ignition switch with starter switch. If it is the control fuse I think I would look for changes made to the ECM. Maybe a component not installed properly.
Sorry if I mislead you earlier. Hope you get this before starting to take apart handlebars.
Ah...I did see the line in the diagram to the ignition. If it's an ECM thing, then that would point to the DFO, I think. I'll check all the connections. Regardless, I'll use all this great information you guys have bestowed upon me and see if I can figure this out.
Whiff
Whiff
If it is the control fuse I think I would look for changes made to the ECM. Maybe a component not installed properly. Sorry if I mislead you earlier. Hope you get this before starting to take apart handlebars.
Problem solved or not, I can't thank you guys enough for helping me with this. The folks on these forums are invaluable.
Whiffleboy
I have read this thread and many others like it lately. I sure do agree with ya Whiffleboy, a very valuable resource this forum is, the people here are extrememly helpful and friendly. One of HD's legacies will surely be it's ability to bring like minded people together to help each other and to party. Real glad ya got ya bob sorted cobber.
I notice a difference when starting too. Before, the speedo lights would go dark on the first crank or, if I was unlucky, right before the fuse blew. Now, the lights don't even so much as dim. I think the problem's fixed. 
Whiff

Whiff


