Troubleshooting Via Video
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2005
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Troubleshooting Via Video
My bike started blowing fuses again this morning when starting it up. I kind of thought I'd taken care of the issue by messing around with the wiring in my switch housing, but, deep down I kind of figured it would happen again. Sure enough, this morning I had to push it back in to the garage dead as a doornail. I began noticing a difference in the way it cranked on start up some time ago. I want to say it was around the time I installed my DFO, but, honestly, it could've been around the time I finished up my apes install. I really don't remember.
Last week, I posted a couple of video links that showed a couple of start ups of my bike. One, not too long after purchase and the other just a week ago. I realized that the difference in sound that the bike makes when hitting the start button is exactly the difference I referenced above. In the old video, the bike turns over without missing a beat. In the newer video, you hear it almost pause after the first crank of the starter before the bike gets 3 or 4 subsequent cranks and finally starts. It's immediately after this first crank that my bike has been blowing fuses recently.
So, I ask you...please review these videos and let me know if perhaps I may have a starter/ignition/relay problem. Or, is this also indicative of a pinched or loose wire? Thanks a bunch!
Smooth Crank
Sketchy Crank
Whiff
Last week, I posted a couple of video links that showed a couple of start ups of my bike. One, not too long after purchase and the other just a week ago. I realized that the difference in sound that the bike makes when hitting the start button is exactly the difference I referenced above. In the old video, the bike turns over without missing a beat. In the newer video, you hear it almost pause after the first crank of the starter before the bike gets 3 or 4 subsequent cranks and finally starts. It's immediately after this first crank that my bike has been blowing fuses recently.
So, I ask you...please review these videos and let me know if perhaps I may have a starter/ignition/relay problem. Or, is this also indicative of a pinched or loose wire? Thanks a bunch!
Smooth Crank
Sketchy Crank
Whiff
Banned
Joined: Aug 2006
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RE: Troubleshooting Via Video
Without looking at the Videos, I would still vote for a pinched wire somewhere.
Seems like you either have a bad ground, or something is shorting to ground, robbing
juice to your starter.
DougJ
Seems like you either have a bad ground, or something is shorting to ground, robbing
juice to your starter.
DougJ
Road Captain
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RE: Troubleshooting Via Video
First closely go over any component or wiring changes you did. It may be a short in something you did. If short not viseable get out your manual and a multi meter with a good ohm meter and begin checking point to point. Do this right after bike won't start. Most of the time shorts are component related, but since you have changed around some, it may be owner related.
I watched both videos. Pipes sound great. Bikes looks great. I can't really hear a difference in starting that dosen't sound normal. Good Luck.
I watched both videos. Pipes sound great. Bikes looks great. I can't really hear a difference in starting that dosen't sound normal. Good Luck.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Lockport Township, IL
RE: Troubleshooting Via Video
If messing with the wires in the switch housing made it quit blowing fuses for a while, I'd start there. If you had a pinched wire before and messing with the wiring moved the wire enough to keep it from shortin out, then that was just a temporary fix. You need to look closely at each of the wires in the housing. If you see one with a crack in the insulation, you need to repair it. Normal vibration can be causing the wire to move enough so it shorts out.
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2005
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RE: Troubleshooting Via Video
Thanks, gents. I'll take it apart and look at it a little closer. Would any of you consider the DFO as the culprit? It's mostly running through the ECM stuff with only a ground to the battery, but, I'm just curious. The reason I ask is that it's my Engine Control fuse that keeps blowing.
Whiff
Whiff
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,955
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From: central TEXAS
RE: Troubleshooting Via Video
sorry bro I dont have youre answer, but Have something I would like to share. Before installing the apes, when pushing the run button the bike would make a sound. the same for 10 mos. everytime........................now with the apes when you push the run button the sound is different and it is not consistant..... The last three days I have been thru three tail lights..........??????? The bulb is just burnt. like I have a short to ground at the bulb housing. I have checked all rear wiring including blinker wires that have been re routed for rear 180. all look good. Im wondering if it has something to do with the wiring from the ape install...................................???????
hope you find youre answer.... be sure and let us know.............................................. .................................................L OLIFE
[IMG]local://upfiles/19303/8B604FE15E3B4883A1064A68110A6E26.jpg[/IMG]
hope you find youre answer.... be sure and let us know.............................................. .................................................L OLIFE
[IMG]local://upfiles/19303/8B604FE15E3B4883A1064A68110A6E26.jpg[/IMG]
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Road Master
Joined: Dec 2005
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RE: Troubleshooting Via Video
LoLife,
That sound you refer to, are you talking about the high-pitched whine of the injectors filling? I'd be very concerned if that's the case. Now...stop rubbing that damned picture of your fantastic looking bike in my face like this. You're making me doubt my [anti] chrome and handlebar choices. [8D]
Whiff
That sound you refer to, are you talking about the high-pitched whine of the injectors filling? I'd be very concerned if that's the case. Now...stop rubbing that damned picture of your fantastic looking bike in my face like this. You're making me doubt my [anti] chrome and handlebar choices. [8D]
Whiff
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Mountain View, California
RE: Troubleshooting Via Video
At the risk of pointing out things you likely already considered...
From your videos, it sounds like your starter has either less amperage available to it, or it's now drawing more amperage than it was before
if it has less amperage available, then either the connection between it and (ultimately) the battery has deteriorated, or the total current draw on the system has increased. it sounds like you suspect the total current draw on the system has increased because of a short in the handlebars or something. If I were in your shoes, I'd look for a way to remove the handlebar wiring from the system and find a way to engage the starter without the relying on the circuitry and starter switch in the handlebar. At the same time, I'd want to leave the wiring between the starter and the battery as is so that you're eliminating one problem at a time. If the starter cranks like it used to, then your problem is likely where you suspect it is. If still cranks the same, then I'd bypass the existing wiring from battery to starter and see how that effects cranking. If it's still bad, then your starter is probably drawing more current than before for some reason: a faulty starter? A change in the engine requireing more cranking power (timing change, increased compression, etc).
The way modern bike electronics are, you might want to consult a manual or a living, breathing pro before doing these tests. Hell, for all I know any one of them could result in mucho damage. I'm just tossing out some thoughts.
Good luck man, these electrical problems can be a bear. Be sure to let us know what you find.
Z
From your videos, it sounds like your starter has either less amperage available to it, or it's now drawing more amperage than it was before
if it has less amperage available, then either the connection between it and (ultimately) the battery has deteriorated, or the total current draw on the system has increased. it sounds like you suspect the total current draw on the system has increased because of a short in the handlebars or something. If I were in your shoes, I'd look for a way to remove the handlebar wiring from the system and find a way to engage the starter without the relying on the circuitry and starter switch in the handlebar. At the same time, I'd want to leave the wiring between the starter and the battery as is so that you're eliminating one problem at a time. If the starter cranks like it used to, then your problem is likely where you suspect it is. If still cranks the same, then I'd bypass the existing wiring from battery to starter and see how that effects cranking. If it's still bad, then your starter is probably drawing more current than before for some reason: a faulty starter? A change in the engine requireing more cranking power (timing change, increased compression, etc).
The way modern bike electronics are, you might want to consult a manual or a living, breathing pro before doing these tests. Hell, for all I know any one of them could result in mucho damage. I'm just tossing out some thoughts.
Good luck man, these electrical problems can be a bear. Be sure to let us know what you find.
Z
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Road Master
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RE: Troubleshooting Via Video
There's only so much electrical stuff I'll try before throwing in the towel, towing it in and breaking out the plastic to get it repaired. I'll do way more damage than good if I get all up in the wires and stuff. I'm willing to take apart my switch housing, check the connections and stuff and maybe take off the DFO to see if it corrects the problem. After that, I give up. I just don't have the know-how to continue any further. Hell, I don't even know how to use a voltmeter. 
Whiff
Whiff
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RE: Troubleshooting Via Video
Before you throw in the towel. Closely go over all the changes you made. Wire bundles don't usually short out against each. If you did anything while changing bars with run switch or starter switch. I would begin by looking there. The problem with an intermitten short is that, it may short, you haul the bike to service, then it works just fine. The fact that it does this probably means that the problem isn't a component. Usually a bad component stays bad. I would give those handlebar swiches a real close look.