Stainless engine hardware/bolts???
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Stainless engine hardware/bolts???
Looking to change my engine/trans. hardware to stainless. I see alot of kits on ebay. Has anyone had any luck with any of them. I know they make different grades of stainless and just don't want to get stuck with a crap set.
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
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From: Honah Lee
You may opening up the possibility of a bag of problems. Most cres hardware is the soft galling type. If you go to the 400 series then it tends to dull. Good chance you will cause a leak or brake a bolt off unless you do this type of work. Later the soft cres bolts will hang up in the Al and break off when a repair is necessary. If it was all torn down, I would go with chrome steel if you want shine. On a street bike just ride it. If you really must, bite the bullet and get the stuff from Harley. Just my opinion but I work with this stuff in submarines and somewhat know what I am talking about,
Tourer
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From: Where Uncle Sam tells me to live!
You may opening up the possibility of a bag of problems. Most cres hardware is the soft galling type. If you go to the 400 series then it tends to dull. Good chance you will cause a leak or brake a bolt off unless you do this type of work. Later the soft cres bolts will hang up in the Al and break off when a repair is necessary. If it was all torn down, I would go with chrome steel if you want shine. On a street bike just ride it. If you really must, bite the bullet and get the stuff from Harley. Just my opinion but I work with this stuff in submarines and somewhat know what I am talking about,
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I have used ARP stainless bolts on my hotrods and never have had a problem. I do know that stainless from Home Depot or Lowes is such a low grade it gulls and usually breaks off. My experience with chrome plated bolts is that they eventually they turn to rust. I would just like to get rid of the cadium plated stock bolts for something with a better apperience. Any time you use two different metals such as stainless and aluminum anti-seize is your best friend.
Last edited by BlueBobber07; Jun 18, 2011 at 08:42 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Knoxville, Tn
Hardware
Diamond Engineering makes kits for different parts like the primary, trans, etc. Looks good lasts a long time, not cheap though. You can also set hardware through www.customchrome.com None of these are cheap, but they will last. Stainless is the way to go...chrome will flake and rust after you've put a wrench on it.
Last edited by dyna rider; Jun 18, 2011 at 09:37 PM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
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From: S.E. MO
I would be Leary of some of those cheap kits.
Personally I just use Hot Toppers. Quick easy and look good.
Personally I just use Hot Toppers. Quick easy and look good.
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: 3rd Rock
Hello.... Yes...I'ts all exspensive but you get what you pay for. I have started changing over to ARP (American Racing Products). Their Hardware is top of the line. It comes in polished stainless or, black anodized, six point or 12. My first choise was 12 point stainless that claimes to exceed grade 8 for my derby cover. I hate those f**@ing torxs bolts. Just add a dab of anti-sieze compount and torque to spec. Works good, last a long time. They have a down-loadable catalog, just look in the back of your parts book for lengths and thread size.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Suffolk, England
Just remember to not swap anything that carries a load to ordinary stainless steel - its just not strong enough. Its fine for engine covers and such but don't use it for footpegs, brake and wheel components, etc.
