Why is this screw capped? I guess I can understand why the factory would cap it on a new machine, but sooner or later it would be needed for adjustments to compensate for age.....right? Can it be removed with carb still installed? Thanks

 

Its capped because of EPA regs - so you don't tamper with things. Very easy to remove though, drill a small hole, screw in a sheet metal screw and pull.

 

Hmmm....heartbreaker/lawbreaker. I intend to 'tamper' with the intention to solve 'cough'/spit behavior at idle/low speed.

 

Usually if it is still plugged there is a chance it was never rejetted. You can take out the plug and rejet with the carb on the bike but it is more challenging. Again, if you need help, it's 45 minutes away. Let me know.....

 

There is a way to drill while on the bike. Using a long 1/8" drill into the very bottom of the screw housing, from the side, just enough to get thru that thin housing, then pry the cap off. Turn in the screw till lightly seated then back out about 2 1/4 turns, that's a base adjustment, your bike could vary once it's hot. I adjusted mine till I got the carb farts, then out till the fart's disappeared. i installed two #4 brass washers under the needle and kept the original jets installed. Some use a 1988 Sportster needle. This aids in the transition between idle and throttle application.

 

Rather than fool with the local dealer parts guys, I looked for/purchased a complete kit from CV Performance. Kit has all the right parts and an external fuel-mix thumb-screw to replace the OE piece. This way I'll know what is what in the carb and not have to guess at what was/was not done before I became the owner/head-wrench/maintenance guy. Thanks

 

Not trying to make your project any harder, but since you'll have the carb off it might be worth the extra time and $ to swap out the manifold-to-head gaskets at the same time - they go bad after a while and start to suck air, making carb adjustments/proper tuning highly difficult.

~

 

Great suggestion! HD #26995-86B (2) Will do. Thank you for the advice. I appreciate it.

 

Got carb off and took it apart. Someone had been there before. Had a #48 slow-jet and a #180 main-jet. Stock are 45/190. Kit recommendation is 48/195 so that's what I put in along with new needle. (kit also came with a 46/190). Slide vacuum port had been drilled to 1/8". I'm going to see about changing the manifold seals tomorrow, drain the gas tank, and then put everything back. The thumb-screw idle mix screw will come in handy.

 

So how did it come out? Does it run better now?