120r
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2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
120r
looking into doing the screamin eagle 120r but going the whole 9 and doing heads cams throttle body right off the bat...has anyone had any experience with the motor stock or modified..appriciate anything i can get
That motor is complete, it already has worked heads and cams to match the motor, Throttle body and clutch would be your main concerns.
I see your'e from upstate NY, I would give Scott a call over at Hillside. I'm sure he can point you in the right direction. Or post this in the engine/intake/exhaust forum section, Im sure you will get a few responses there as well.
Last edited by jpace024; Aug 8, 2011 at 12:23 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 4
From: Kennewick, WA
The guys running the stock TB's that were flowed and modified to 58 mm with new injectors, all else being the same build (107" RP) are getting better numbers than I do with my SE 50 mm TB. When the Road King guys, one of them about 6'6" and 310 pounds and the other guy his father about the same size are getting unintentional wheelies when jamming through the gears, that says a lot to me.
As for clutch work, the most cost effective route to go is with an AIM variable pressure clutch. After my build and coming back from a 20 mile test run, I smelled a burnt clutch. That explained the feeling that I felt when accelerating hard. I immediately ordered the AIM VP84T ($220), installed it in under an hour and haven't had a problem since. That thing really hooks up now and the clutch is very easy to pull in. Easy mod to do and very impressive.
As for pipes, the 2 into 1's are the way to go, so is a PC V and good tune. That should be enough to keep you happy.
My first mod when getting my 2007 Dyna was the stage 1 with PC3, Big Sucker and 2-1 exhaust. Next came the suspension, then the build, then the Wimmer A/C, AIM and SE compensator, then the oil cooler, then the Positrac. More or less in that order, though some were installed the same day. Many more mods were done, but not necessarily for performance or handling.
Once you make one big power changing mod, other changes need to soon follow until you address the weakest link. I think I've done that, now I just enjoy the ride...
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,427
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From: Smack Dab in the Middle of Louisiana
If you make it go fast, make sure you address the stopping power as well. The brake system seems to be one of the last things people look at when doing performance modifications.
Just a thought
Just a thought
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 72
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From: Indiana
I've got the motor on my 08 FXDF and I love it. I have the 58MM throttle body, SE Stage 1 A/C, and Boarzilla 2-into-1 pipes. The sound is unreal and it has all the power I need. Get used to some serious valve noise for the first couple of thousand miles though.
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 4
From: Kennewick, WA
On the other hand, a built engine on an otherwise stock bike chassis that keeps the front and rear brakes, same weight, etc, will still be slowed from the same speed just as fast regardless of how powerful the engine is.
Now, if you and I are racing in the mountain twisties and you can hit 90 mph between corners and I can only hit 70 mph, but we both need to slow to 20 mph for the corners, then your brakes needs to scrub off more momentum and will get hotter than mine and begin to fade sooner than mine. In this scenario you would be smart to invest in better brakes, even though you would still wax me from point to point either way.
Most Harley riders just use the extra power of built engines like a well concealed bottle of nitrous, it's just there if you need it. We might hit the speed limit sooner, but that is all. Our brakes aren't overused and should suffice.
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