Another advantage is the ease of seeing what fault codes have been recorded, and whether historic or current, all on an easy to read screen. Hopefully it comes up empty every time.

 

Now if the TMax wasn't so expensive . sounds like it works great.

 

Contact Drew @ Dr. V-Twin, he is a sponsor here, will get you a great price, it is worth every penny.

 

If you are not rich and budget mods as you can afford it...it's not expensive. I have blown through more air cleaners and exhausts than I care to admit. Add to that my 106" kit, ported heads, cams, and it's paid for itself. If you consider cost of a tuner + the cost of a dyno tune, everytime you make major changes it's worth it. Not to mention if you decide to change out to a 30t, it's very simple to recal your speedo as well.

Very easy and the peace of mind....I recommend.

 

There was one for sale in the classifieds for almost half what a new unit would be... I love mine.

 

2011 super glide custom.
thundermax a/t
s&s slip on chrome tapered turbo's
s&s tear drop a/c with k&n a/f, home made external breather's.

i installed and programed the t-max, it was a real learning experience (pita) but i got there.
1st efi.
bought the bike new september 2010, the mod's started 1 week after ownership.
the bike is a rocket.
so, i believe it work's very well.
it run's how it should have run, straight out of the box.
grumpy.

 

A few words on that. I did the speedo recal with my 30T, called Zippers for the calibrator (before it was part of the Smartlink software). I went over it with the tech and he confirmed it was correct. Since then I found out it is not correct. My speed seemed a lot higher than indicated and I saw a post about this. The pulley size calc is based on the rear pulley, not front. If you lower the rear pulley teeth that is like putting on a larger front sprocket. So if you use the old and new numbers for the sprocket you are going the wrong way. What you need to do is reverse the tooth number- use 32 for the new and 30 for the old. Tell me if you think I'm wrong on this.

 

Since I have a Dakota Digital I have a different method to calibrate, so I can't say if the theory is correct, but if you are changing the front pulley by 2 teeth, that is equal to a 4 tooth change on the rear.

So if you had a 32/70 stock setup and changed to a 30t front, you would have to tell it the rear is 66 tooth to get close to the stock gear ratio.

32/70 = 2.188:1 gear ratio
30/66 = 2.200:1 gear ratio

 

That sounds right. I'm not sure that a 2 tooth reduction is exactly equal to a 4 tooth change, but it's close.

 

On the subject of the t-max I have been running mine since 06, love it and have no regrets. To those that have the t-max when you turn on the ignition and then the run switch what Idiot lights do you have that light up? The only one that comes on is the orange one when which goes out when the fuel pump has pressure built up. Seems like my battery light use to flash on for a second or so, but no longer does.