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Battery Goes Dead

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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 03:43 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by grf000
Battery fuse drive the ECM, Speedometer and TSM (signal light processor) and is always hot. Positive wire from battery goes to starter. Then from there with a smaller wire to 30 amp circuit breaker . It splits there and provides 30 amp breaker protection power for the key switch. The other leg of the split goes to the 15 amp battery fuse providing 15 amp protection to the ECM, speedometer and TSM. When you disconnect the battery fuse you should see a about 2.5 milliamper drop
Disconnecting the battery fuse made it drop a lot around 50 milliamps.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 04:16 PM
  #32  
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So because I pulled the 2 lines going into the regular and saw no change does that mean it is not the regulator or the stator? The draw goes away when I pull the battery fuse so what does that mean? What could be the problem?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 04:47 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by xBigMarkx
So because I pulled the 2 lines going into the regular and saw no change does that mean it is not the regulator or the stator? The draw goes away when I pull the battery fuse so what does that mean? What could be the problem?
Did you read everything above? The battery fuse controls many circuits.
This is confusing to you because it sounds like you don't fully understand the system. Electrical systems are not something you jump in and repair if you are not familiar with the basics and fundamentals. I apologize if I sound like I'm scolding, but the fundamentals of electrical systems is a must, if you want to fully troubleshoot an electrical gremlin.

Whenever someone asks me to look at an electriclal problem, I'm pretty apprehensive to help until I have the time to thoroughly inspect the machine. When I do this, I start at the battery and work my way forward to every related source of consumption. And the very first rule of electrical troubleshooting is NEVER assume anything, check everything! Every wire, every connector, every pigtail, and every ground. A majority of the time, the problem is fairly simple to pinpoint, once tracing the path of electrical flow, from start to finish.

I've often found that most problems are not component failure, but lack of maintenance. Remember... EVERY connector and every piece of wire on your bike, is exposed to the elements and constant exposure to wind, weather, a wide variety of temperature range, rain, and the worst of all... road grime. Unlike a car, where most of these things are well-protected, and tucked up inside the body, which in essence, is an enclosure.

Earlier you stated that you thought a bike this new should not have problems. But all machines require maintenance, not just oil-change types of maintenance. Your problem could be as simple as a loose connector, a skinned wire, some corrosion, etc. Take the covers off and give everything a good visual inspection before you waste more time chasing ghosts. Often, this alone will help identify a problem area. And remember, to look deep for corrosion, it always starts in hidden areas. MANY problems are bad grounds. Confirm those are all good as well, with your meter set to measure ohms.

Here's a couple good links on the proper use of a multimeter:

http://www.sciencebuddies.org/scienc...Fc3DKgod71_NoA

http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/

http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzjMIcER4EU

Hope this helps.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Wanna Ride
Did you read everything above? The battery fuse controls many circuits.
This is confusing to you because it sounds like you don't fully understand the system. Electrical systems are not something you jump in and repair if you are not familiar with the basics and fundamentals. I apologize if I sound like I'm scolding, but the fundamentals of electrical systems is a must, if you want to fully troubleshoot an electrical gremlin.

Whenever someone asks me to look at an electriclal problem, I'm pretty apprehensive to help until I have the time to thoroughly inspect the machine. When I do this, I start at the battery and work my way forward to every related source of consumption. And the very first rule of electrical troubleshooting is NEVER assume anything, check everything! Every wire, every connector, every pigtail, and every ground. A majority of the time, the problem is fairly simple to pinpoint, once tracing the path of electrical flow, from start to finish.

I've often found that most problems are not component failure, but lack of maintenance. Remember... EVERY connector and every piece of wire on your bike, is exposed to the elements and constant exposure to wind, weather, a wide variety of temperature range, rain, and the worst of all... road grime. Unlike a car, where most of these things are well-protected, and tucked up inside the body, which in essence, is an enclosure.

Earlier you stated that you thought a bike this new should not have problems. But all machines require maintenance, not just oil-change types of maintenance. Your problem could be as simple as a loose connector, a skinned wire, some corrosion, etc. Take the covers off and give everything a good visual inspection before you waste more time chasing ghosts. Often, this alone will help identify a problem area. And remember, to look deep for corrosion, it always starts in hidden areas. MANY problems are bad grounds. Confirm those are all good as well, with your meter set to measure ohms.

Here's a couple good links on the proper use of a multimeter:

http://www.sciencebuddies.org/scienc...Fc3DKgod71_NoA

http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/

http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzjMIcER4EU

Hope this helps.
If I understood how the electrical system worked I would not have to post on the forum. I would just fix it. Anyways if anyone has an idea what could be causing this let me know.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 05:07 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by xBigMarkx
If I understood how the electrical system worked I would not have to post on the forum. I would just fix it. Anyways if anyone has an idea what could be causing this let me know.
Really? That's what you say after someone tries to help you understand the bigger picture of troubleshooting a complex (not complicated) system? So much for trying to help. It's kinda tough to fix it until you understand it, Mr. Gratitude.

Well, anyways, your welcome. I hope it's raining the next time it breaks down on you. Welcome to the neighborhood, Richard... 17 of your total of 20 posts are on this problem.

Sounds like you'll have this figured out pretty quick there on your own. Just take it to the dealer, they'll be glad to drain your wallet.
 

Last edited by Wanna Ride; Jan 1, 2012 at 05:12 PM.
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 05:24 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by xBigMarkx
So because I pulled the 2 lines going into the regular and saw no change does that mean it is not the regulator or the stator? The draw goes away when I pull the battery fuse so what does that mean? What could be the problem?
Think you can rule that out. You are going to need a Harley service electrical diagnostic manual for your year. My 04 may not apply here. Your are going to need to go past the 15amp battery fuse now and disconnect the TSM, Seeedometer and ECM and note when load goes away to isolate the problem. Problem still in my head is you did say you had 61.1 and it drops 50 with battery fues so you still have 10 going some were when it really should have none. That must be going thru key switch even with it off. If it were me I would unplug key switch and see if that gets it all.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:27 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by grf000
Think you can rule that out. You are going to need a Harley service electrical diagnostic manual for your year. My 04 may not apply here. Your are going to need to go past the 15amp battery fuse now and disconnect the TSM, Seeedometer and ECM and note when load goes away to isolate the problem. Problem still in my head is you did say you had 61.1 and it drops 50 with battery fues so you still have 10 going some were when it really should have none. That must be going thru key switch even with it off. If it were me I would unplug key switch and see if that gets it all.
Thanks I will try that. This problem is driving me nuts but I am slowly figuring out what it ain't so soon I should find what it is.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:30 PM
  #38  
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[QUOTE=Wanna Ride;9205683]Really? That's what you say after someone tries to help you understand the bigger picture of troubleshooting a complex (not complicated) system? So much for trying to help. It's kinda tough to fix it until you understand it, Mr. Gratitude.

Well, anyways, your welcome. I hope it's raining the next time it breaks down on you. Welcome to the neighborhood, Richard... 17 of your total of 20 posts are on this problem.

Sounds like you'll have this figured out pretty quick there on your own. Just take it to the dealer, they'll be glad to drain your wallet. [/QUOTE

That post was as helpful as your last.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 04:01 PM
  #39  
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This I got it figured out. My speedo has been fogging up and when I unplugged it the milliamps went way down. I think it is my gremlin. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 11:08 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by xBigMarkx
My speedo has been fogging up and when I unplugged it the milliamps went way down.
Glad you got it figured out.

My earlier point was... it's difficult to troubleshoot electrical systems, without actually seein the whole picture. Being on a computer, and not in front of your bike, there's no way we could have known all the variables and factors involved. It's very likely that standing in front of the bike, and possibly seeing fog or moisture in any gauges, most of us would have asked about that.

I was just trying to help you out, friend. I realize how aggravating and stressful these things can be, but I wouldn't go through the trouble of accurately typing a lengthy read on troubleshooting, just to add to your aggravation. I got more important **** to tend to, than just poke a stick at someone with a bike problem on the internet.

I'm sorry you didn't see that for what it was intended to be... help. But I'm glad you got it going again. Ride safe.
 
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