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Thinking of getting an upgrade kit to 95ci. New pieces/parts. Option with the kit is 9.3:1 or 10.25:1. Engine is stock with Andrews 21N cams. I'm leaning toward the 9.3:1 ratio. Agree?
Kit comes with new cylinders, cast pistons, head gaskets, pins and clips. Any other pieces/parts I should be thinking about? Engine is under 10k miles and has been well maintained/never abused.
Thanks
Unless you want to change cams, stick with the 9.3 and get the heads decked and ported. Bring the static compression up to 9.5-9.8 range. Also use .030 head gaskets.
Have only seen 95 kits. Of course I'm not against going bigger but with the 'little hotter than stock cams', I'd prolly have to get into more changes.
Don't have to do it by a kit. Check to see if there is a site sponsor that does engine work in your area. Otherwise you can ship your cylinders and heads to one. They can bore your cylinders, port and deck your heads and get you a matched set of pistons. I don't know how much power you will get out of the 21 cam, but I've seen over 100hp/100tq with a 98". Maybe 90hp/100tq with the 21 if you get the heads done. Post over in the engine technical section and you will get more help. Scott at Hillside or Kirby at Vee Twin are just a couple.
Whatever size you choose, really think about head work and carb. V-twins are simple get more air/fuel in and get more exhaust out = power. Going bigger helps, but don't ignore the intake/heads and the exhaust.
Going to 10.25 is OK on gas, but you will probably need compression releases. My current 95 is 10.5, has them and needs them. Also a heavy duty starter is best when you go over 10.
The problem with the H-D BB kit is that the parts are not "matched", meaning you could get some pistons/cylinders that are within the factory spec but on the low/high side and the piston to cylinder wall fitment could be off from the jump. Some dealers will check the fitment in torque plates and some will not.
Best assurance of good piston/cylinder fitment would be to have your "seasoned" OEM cylinders bored to 3.938" (98") and fitted to new flat top pistons; there are several options. Or, if you want to stay at 95", just buy the SE cast flat top piston sets and have your cylinders bored to fit those. If you can afford a street port job, that would be a nice addition to the project. If not, a valve job, new guide seals and decking heads to set the compression at 9.6-9.8 and/or keep CCR below 190psi (with .030" head gasket)will definitely help. Install SE204 or Andrews 37 cams and your done.
Upgrade the inner cam bearings and replace your OEM chain tensioners, or upgrade the cam plate to the SE Hybrid kit. Adjustable pushrods may be required. An adjustable ignition would be a nice addition as well.
Whatever size you choose, really think about head work and carb. V-twins are simple get more air/fuel in and get more exhaust out = power. Going bigger helps, but don't ignore the intake/heads and the exhaust.
Going to 10.25 is OK on gas, but you will probably need compression releases. My current 95 is 10.5, has them and needs them. Also a heavy duty starter is best when you go over 10.
Slippy slope when you go for power
Agreed on the CR, that is why I went with the EZ start cams, built in CR
When I bought the Andrews tensioner upgrade kit, I selected the 21N cams. Happy with them. Don't care to change. Having my 'seasoned' cylinders bored, to match pistons is a good suggestion. Don't know where to get that work done around here. I'll ride over to my local indy and ask about that along with head work. Valves/etc sure aren't wore out with less than 10k use, but getting them checked is always good. I prefer keeping the CR close to stock. I very much appreciate the advice, thanks.
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