half the excitment is just ordering the parts and planning out the night till its done
Let me know if you run into any problems or questions.
Finally doin' the Fat Glide Fender
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 996
Likes: 29
From: Albany, NY
Finally doin' the Fat Glide Fender
Well, I've been talking about it for almost 2 years, and I FINALLY pulled the trigger today and ordered the parts for the 2010+ Wide Glide fender swap. I ordered the parts from New Castle HD, which was the cheapest of all the dealers I looked at. Only thing that sucks is they said it would take 4 to 6 weeks for me to get the fender, because it counts as a "painted" part, even though I ordered it in primer.
I absolutely can't wait to do this mod! The anticipation is gonna be just like last year when I waited over a month for the parts to do my handlebar swap. Ugh.
I absolutely can't wait to do this mod! The anticipation is gonna be just like last year when I waited over a month for the parts to do my handlebar swap. Ugh.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 996
Likes: 29
From: Albany, NY
Yeah that's true. But of course, once they do roll in, I'll have to wait for it to come back from paint!
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
It's worht the wait. I'm in the middle of it right now. I finally have all the parts and even found a couple used ones. Scored some wide gide struts for 1/3 cost new and some progressive 11" shocks still in the box. Worth the wait so far. I'm about to trim the new primered WG fender for belt clearance then off to paint. More waiting!!!!
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 617
Likes: 19
From: Baltimore, MD
I did this last year and like it a lot. Maybe a little out of school, but here's a few things I learned along the way that would have been nice to know in advance ...
You lose the circuit board in the tail lamp from the Fat Bob fender, so you have several wiring issues to deal with
The Wide Glide fender is a little too narrow to fit the struts, so you need some spacers between the fender and strut. I used 1/2" chrome washers. 3 toward the seat. 2 in the back.
If you want to use strut covers, Street Glide ones don't work with the stock Fat Bob shocks - the shocks are too fat and they rub. (and I have a set of Street Glide strut covers for sale, cheap, if anyone is interested). I see people say the Wide Glide ones work, but they only come in gloss black
If you don't use the strut covers, the stock tail light stand-offs don't fit well.
Hope this makes your project a little easier.
You lose the circuit board in the tail lamp from the Fat Bob fender, so you have several wiring issues to deal with
- The Fat Bob tail lights have really short wires, so you need to lengthen them to the harness under the seat. I found that lamp cord works well
- If you don't splice the wires, you need to crimp new the AMP multi-lock pins. I found crimping with pliers and soldering a pain. Finally bought a crimper for $30. Wish I did that in the beginning
- You need a tail light replacement or the run/brake module. I used the LED under fender light and repurposed the pigtail that comes in the kit to do the rear light wiring the way I wanted it.
- If you don't use a side mount tail light over the plate, depending on your state, you may need to separately wire a light for the license plate. Then, you need to deal with either having it on all the time or putting in a switch somewhere to turn it off. There's a post in here about a $5 waterproof switch from eBay that works perfectly
The Wide Glide fender is a little too narrow to fit the struts, so you need some spacers between the fender and strut. I used 1/2" chrome washers. 3 toward the seat. 2 in the back.
If you want to use strut covers, Street Glide ones don't work with the stock Fat Bob shocks - the shocks are too fat and they rub. (and I have a set of Street Glide strut covers for sale, cheap, if anyone is interested). I see people say the Wide Glide ones work, but they only come in gloss black
If you don't use the strut covers, the stock tail light stand-offs don't fit well.
Hope this makes your project a little easier.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,299
Likes: 8
From: Louisiana
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 996
Likes: 29
From: Albany, NY
It's worht the wait. I'm in the middle of it right now. I finally have all the parts and even found a couple used ones. Scored some wide gide struts for 1/3 cost new and some progressive 11" shocks still in the box. Worth the wait so far. I'm about to trim the new primered WG fender for belt clearance then off to paint. More waiting!!!!
I did this last year and like it a lot. Maybe a little out of school, but here's a few things I learned along the way that would have been nice to know in advance ...
You lose the circuit board in the tail lamp from the Fat Bob fender, so you have several wiring issues to deal with
The Wide Glide fender is a little too narrow to fit the struts, so you need some spacers between the fender and strut. I used 1/2" chrome washers. 3 toward the seat. 2 in the back.
If you want to use strut covers, Street Glide ones don't work with the stock Fat Bob shocks - the shocks are too fat and they rub. (and I have a set of Street Glide strut covers for sale, cheap, if anyone is interested). I see people say the Wide Glide ones work, but they only come in gloss black
If you don't use the strut covers, the stock tail light stand-offs don't fit well.
Hope this makes your project a little easier.
You lose the circuit board in the tail lamp from the Fat Bob fender, so you have several wiring issues to deal with
- The Fat Bob tail lights have really short wires, so you need to lengthen them to the harness under the seat. I found that lamp cord works well
- If you don't splice the wires, you need to crimp new the AMP multi-lock pins. I found crimping with pliers and soldering a pain. Finally bought a crimper for $30. Wish I did that in the beginning
- You need a tail light replacement or the run/brake module. I used the LED under fender light and repurposed the pigtail that comes in the kit to do the rear light wiring the way I wanted it.
- If you don't use a side mount tail light over the plate, depending on your state, you may need to separately wire a light for the license plate. Then, you need to deal with either having it on all the time or putting in a switch somewhere to turn it off. There's a post in here about a $5 waterproof switch from eBay that works perfectly
The Wide Glide fender is a little too narrow to fit the struts, so you need some spacers between the fender and strut. I used 1/2" chrome washers. 3 toward the seat. 2 in the back.
If you want to use strut covers, Street Glide ones don't work with the stock Fat Bob shocks - the shocks are too fat and they rub. (and I have a set of Street Glide strut covers for sale, cheap, if anyone is interested). I see people say the Wide Glide ones work, but they only come in gloss black
If you don't use the strut covers, the stock tail light stand-offs don't fit well.
Hope this makes your project a little easier.
Yeah after I saw your bike lowered I couldn't wait, especially after I found out that the strut covers from a low rider/super glide would fit. They're chrome and were actually cheaper than the black ones so the project suddenly became affordable lol. Thanks for the inspiration. If I hadn't seen those pics you posted I probably wouldn't have ordered all the parts yesterday haha. Cheers!!!
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 996
Likes: 29
From: Albany, NY
Man I love this forum...but my wallet sure doesn't lol