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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Man, this stuff looks great!
I had asked about a hi temp plasti, and it doesn't look like it is available.
I would like to try it on my chain guard. But how tough is it? Stones and dirt get onto the guard.
Also, has anyone sprayed this stuff on chrome? If so, how does it hold up?
I did it on my chrome mirrors. Super easy and looks great....still.
Clean them up then wipe them down with rubbing alcohol.
If you don't like it peel it off. Always make sure to put several coats. As said before it bonds to itself. Sunshine will also help it cure.
Many people have used it on rims and lower valances on cages. Seems to hold up quite well against rocks, etc. It does have a rubbery finish.
Armor All seems to work pretty decent on it also. The dead bugs and stuff on my mirrors clean off pretty easy with regular cleaner.
Thanks for the answer to a question I had. "The dead bugs and stuff on my mirrors clean off pretty easy with regular cleaner." I have been considering doing my MS batwing and wondered how it did with bugs.
I've been watching this thread for a while and think I have a few items picked out I'd like to try this on. But, I have a questions about my truck rims... They are stock rims (chevy colorado), not sure if they are aluminum or some other alloy - but they appear to be cast and then coated with a silver, smooth finish. Well, the finish is flaking off and leaving the ugly, oxidized cast finish below - think this would stick to both surfaces on my rims and still have the same final finish?
I've been watching this thread for a while and think I have a few items picked out I'd like to try this on. But, I have a questions about my truck rims... They are stock rims (chevy colorado), not sure if they are aluminum or some other alloy - but they appear to be cast and then coated with a silver, smooth finish. Well, the finish is flaking off and leaving the ugly, oxidized cast finish below - think this would stick to both surfaces on my rims and still have the same final finish?
This should answer all your questions. This group is "the" authority on dipping.
Actually, the wheels took about 3 hours. That was 7 years ago and holding up
great. The tank and fender took about an hour. My method is far from perfect, but it is just blue painters tape and paper painters drop cloth. I mask off what I want to protect from over spray and go to town...Most of what I paint I do right on the bike unless it's easier to remove. Even up close, no one has guessed that it was done in my yard with rattle cans.
...someday I may still get it done "right", but for now I just enjoy it...and still
play with changes...
Right on bro, I see we have similar methods of madness, just think what could be done in a spray booth..lol
Really dig the OD green as well. Haven't seen that color on the shelves down here. FN great work on all ....
Cheers,
Paint Huffer
I've been watching this thread for a while and think I have a few items picked out I'd like to try this on. But, I have a questions about my truck rims... They are stock rims (chevy colorado), not sure if they are aluminum or some other alloy - but they appear to be cast and then coated with a silver, smooth finish. Well, the finish is flaking off and leaving the ugly, oxidized cast finish below - think this would stick to both surfaces on my rims and still have the same final finish?
if your wheels are corroding on the outside that means they are really corroding on the backside. you could take them off, use a wire brush to remove all the corrosion and sand them down to smooth them and then plasti dip them or paint them. personally I would paint them with wheel paint, I think this plasti-dip stuff is junk.
or if you don't mind spending the money to do it right, just buy another set of wheels next time you need tires.
if your wheels are corroding on the outside that means they are really corroding on the backside. you could take them off, use a wire brush to remove all the corrosion and sand them down to smooth them and then plasti dip them or paint them. personally I would paint them with wheel paint, I think this plasti-dip stuff is junk.
or if you don't mind spending the money to do it right, just buy another set of wheels next time you need tires.
I did it on my chrome mirrors. Super easy and looks great....still.
Clean them up then wipe them down with rubbing alcohol.
If you don't like it peel it off. Always make sure to put several coats. As said before it bonds to itself. Sunshine will also help it cure.
Many people have used it on rims and lower valances on cages. Seems to hold up quite well against rocks, etc. It does have a rubbery finish.
Armor All seems to work pretty decent on it also. The dead bugs and stuff on my mirrors clean off pretty easy with regular cleaner.
Thanks-
I masked off my front end and laid down my first coat-chrome bars, grips, headlight forks, etc...
Will lay a couple more coats tomorrow.
This is a bike Ric, from Southeast Customs did when he bought/sold bikes.These are his words not mine. Bike came out killer though.
" Who ever painted the cases before basically taped off from the jugs up and spray bombed the bitch....frame, kickstand....EVERYTHING! Funny thing is is that he missed all of the undersides of everything......the primary cover looked black when it was on the kickstand, but standing the bike up, u could see all of the silver on the oil pan below the trans.....ABSOLUTELY HORRIBLE PAINT JOB!! Unfortunately, I have no idea who the previous owner was or I would tear him a new one for making my job harder!
It took me 5 hours just to de-oil and mask up the cases and transmission.....What a ****ing nightmare...."
Just a word to super glide owners....if you want the bottom end of your motor black....DON'T DO IT! Just live with the silver....What a bitch of a job."
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