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Plus, I took a sharpie and put a mark on each of the bolt heads that extends onto the pulley. That way I can see at a glance if they are moving. Now if they shear off, that's a different story. I won't see that one coming...
One other thing, you can call me crazy but once I have loctited and torqued the bolts, I don't go back and keep checking them. I feel that once the loctite has cured, I don't want to "break" that seal. That seems to make logic in my mind. Oh well... Cheers.
Zigzag I agree. Once it is loctited in I will not be moving the bolts. How ever you can see the end of the bolt from the other side of the wheel. So if I mark them like you said I will see movement when it happens.
Griff it is a 2006 FXDBI. The only thing I can think of is that the loctite is somehow deteriorating like from the heat of the bearing and axle on the hub? Then it just works itself loose. I could see one but all five? Also a friend suggested that it might be and alignment issue either between the two wheels or more likely the sprocket and primary drive shaft. But i would think you would feel or at least see some belt damage.
First I thought it was the factory threads, I redid them with helicoil, supposed to be much stronger than stock but its not, still have to tighten up the bolts once in a while. My closest explanation would be coarse thread pitch, if I were the designer, I would make them fine threads instead, lot more strength. Live with it!
Honestly, left hand threads would fix the problem permanently, but who wants to reinvent the wheel?
Plus, I took a sharpie and put a mark on each of the bolt heads that extends onto the pulley. That way I can see at a glance if they are moving. Now if they shear off, that's a different story. I won't see that one coming...
One other thing, you can call me crazy but once I have loctited and torqued the bolts, I don't go back and keep checking them. I feel that once the loctite has cured, I don't want to "break" that seal. That seems to make logic in my mind. Oh well... Cheers.
i did this as well, right after a buddy riding next to me on an 07 street glide had his shear and lockup......
Plus, I took a sharpie and put a mark on each of the bolt heads that extends onto the pulley. That way I can see at a glance if they are moving. Now if they shear off, that's a different story. I won't see that one coming...
One other thing, you can call me crazy but once I have loctited and torqued the bolts, I don't go back and keep checking them. I feel that once the loctite has cured, I don't want to "break" that seal. That seems to make logic in my mind. Oh well... Cheers.
im with u on the re checking them i put a chrome sprocket cover on my last tire change w/new bolts and red lock tight no problems yet 6000 mi on bike since i did this also could u just set the trq wrench a little under specified value and check them w/o breaking?
Brown dawg I would torque it to spec because once you loctite it you don't want to have to move that bolt again or you break the loctite seal. If it moves on its own then you have no choice in that you would have to remove the bolt to redo the loctite or just re torque it just a hair above spec but then that means loctite ain't cutting it and you will just have to keep checking it and tightening it as needed.
ok well - this is now 2nd time this has happened to me - I too feel its an issue with COARSE thread pitch
this last attempt I used Socket Head hardware - blue loctited and torque to proper spec - Still backed out
Im considering a couple of options - Other opinions please post:
1) using an aircraft fastener and safety wiring
2) using a coarse/fine pitch stud - red loctite coarse side to hub and locknut fine pitch side to clamp pulley (maybe also pinning the stud in the hub somehow)
im starting to freak out on this damn issue - far too many rear wheel issues of late
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