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I changed mine out a little bit ago, it helped take quite a bit of vibration out although there is still a strong buzz in the pegs. At least it's not the whole bike buzzing now, my teeth aren't chattering anymore in sixth gear.
I snapped some pictures, the process is really easy. I went ahead and did like some of you and picked up some longer SS bolts and extra washers to fill up the gap. I had to pick my engine up another 1/2 inch or so to get the new mount to line up with the frame correctly.
Gap in the old mount:
Old mount on left, new on right. You can see the sag of the old mount and where it looks like the rubber had started cracking.
I didn't have enough washers to fill the entire gap but it was pretty close.
No problem man! I put a 2x4 and a 1x6 under jiffy stand and slid the jack in to take the pressure off the rubber mount. You can pull the bolts out without the jack and you will see how far the motor drops down then just slide the jack under to pick it up far enough to get the holes lined up on the new mount. I had to pick it up enough to take about half the pressure off the front forks.
I usually work out the air gap space, which in my case is around 5mm, put spacers in and bolt it to the frame first, then lower the motor onto the mount and bolt it on the mount last. Small hi frequency vibes still in the 27/30 rev range, but only in the higher gears. I try to keep under 27 in 6th so its smooth and stay over 3500 revs in lower gears when hooking through the mountains. It's absolutely dead smooth at 33/45 revs in 2nd, 3rd and sometimes 4th when giving it a hiding. There is almost no shaking in the mirrors at idle once hot.
When I replaced my front motor mount, I too noticed the sag.. I put the mount in place, and noticed the if I were to bolt it back up directly, it would pull the mount out of it's casing to mate up with the motor. I added 3-1/2" G8 washers. Been a year now and mount stands as if it were still new. If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll post a pic.
I shimmed my front mount about 30000 miles ago. I would advise that before you simply shim the motor, that you do the vehicle alignment procedure first.. or at least the part where you loosen all the motor mounts, start and run the engine for about 20 seconds, shut it off and tight the mounts back up. THEN, check to see if you need shims.
As well, these bikes eat front motor mounts for lunch. I replaced mine before riding season this year, and there was a good 3/8" difference between the rubber locations.
If your handling has changed, and you're getting vibrations... check, then replace your front motor mount. Do the 'settling in' procedure, then check to see if you need shims, and shim it.
Sounds like everyone is focusing on the front mount, why not the rear? Less strain on rear mount?
These are my opinions only but someone who may know more can chime in. Yes I believe there is much less strain on the rear mount, I feel it supports less weight and the design to me looks more thought out. Now lets take one thing into consideration when deciding to change the rear (as I have thought of changing it) depending on how long your front mount has been sagging may affect the rear mount. When you drop the frame bolts on the front you see how much of a gap you need to shim and you will also see the motor drops down significantly which stresses the rear mount. So I believe if you catch this problem early enough you could save yourself from needing to replace the rear one.
The second reason IMO the front mount is more focused on is it gets oil on it from changing the oil filter. The oil eventually degrades the rubber making it more pliable/soft which thus creates an even more sagging affect. If you can see in some of the pictures the old mounts are also "expanded" compared to the new ones. This is a cause of the oil, when the rubber expands instead of acting as a damper it will actually allow the vibrations to spread.
Last edited by override; Nov 10, 2013 at 11:12 AM.
The front and rear mounts, though they look similar, have different properties. The rear is reinforced with steel plates through the rubber for instance.
The engine pivots on the rear mount, leading to the nodding effect you see at the front cylinder. The front mount then absorbs some of this front to back motion. The rear mount, however, absorbs mostly left-right motion when, for instance, cornering.
Of the two, the front mount is the least well designed and yet the one that has the most movement to handle. Fixing the front mount is the priority, with the rear doing an adequate job already.
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