Yes, but the trouble is that with fork oil the weights don't seem to cross over from one brand to another, I read a test a while back where they checked numerous brands and no two 10wt fork oils were the same viscosity - moral of the story is stick to one brand, Ricor suggests Amsoil so if the 10wt isn't working for you then switch to the 5wt......that's what they use in most other models except Dyna's.

 

Thanks for the heads up, P51.

 

I have an Excel chart I made up from several sources that captures most of the suspension fluids out there, it definately shows that oil of the same advertised wt is not all the same. PM me with an email and I'll send you a copy.

 

Sorry for the quasi-highjack, but i am having the dealer install Ricor Intimidators with Amsoil 10wt as we speak. How do I avoid it riding like a brick???? Thought it was going to make the suspension better??

 

If anyone is interested, if you wish the RaceTech gold valves/cartridge emulators to work as designed please think on what you are doing first.

A HD fork has a damper rod/seat pipe and a check valve at the bottom end of the fork tube. This keeps the oil somewhat from bottom to top or visa versa. When you drill 6 holes into the damper rod as per directions would not common sense dictate that the oil would than bypass the check valve? Yes, you are controlling just the rebound with the gold valve by adjusting its speed, the intended purpose, but how can you do that when you have an open circuit allowing free flow around the check valve.

That adjustable plate on the top of the emulator is pushed closed during compression and plays no part in that part of the stroke as the piston moves up. The compression is adjusted by the height of the oil causing air compression (air spring) at the top of the fork.

No one here has ever responded to my many posts showing a dyno chart and the effects of the oil settings with different 10 mm changes. You just throw thicker oil in the forks to stop bottoming out. Look at the piston with the ring you are suppose to change (just like car pistons) and think what the function is. As the piston moves up it pushes against the oil causing friction/dampening/compressing the oil with the oil trying to go around piston or go down into the damper rod to the other side of the piston. The emulator's adjustable plate is slammed closed and kind of prohibiting the oil from returning down the damper rod to the other side piston. In theory only it works rather well for a cheap solution. In practice, the damper rod and piston is so loose the oil leaks and control is degraded.

The solution would to install a better/tighter fitting piston. This is impossible the same as it is in the Big Piston Showa forks found on some of the new Metrics and the XR1200X forks. Works better but not good but that system is cheap to make/sell. The reason why a proper fitting piston can not be installed in a fork tube is because the fork tubes bow/flex and the piston damper tube does not (out of alignment and jamming would occur).

If you wish your damper rod/fork to work better, do not drill holes where the damper tubes oil will bypass the check valve. Look at the example below who belongs to one of our great members. This emulator install was done correct according to RaceTechs book. Now lets think about it for a minute. Doesn't the oil flow around the check valve contained on the inside of the bottom of the fork tube as your forks goes into compression? What happens when you bypass the check valve and both sides fill with oil?



Below is a 2006 & above fork showing all of the components including the check valve. The oil lock is bolted into place that bleeds the last hole (shown) to slow the fork down for the last little bottoming stroke as a last ditch safety measure.



In real suspension the movement is controlled in other ways. Can you get a solution for $300, yes. Can you get something that really works like it should for $300, no. Can you make something from used parts that will work much better that any of the other $300 options out there and readily available on e-Bay for less than a $100, yes but that is another story. The answer is simple but requires work on your part including thinking about it. It is your bike and up to you to do something about it yourself other than buying a cardboard box and having a unskilled mechanic toss it together.

 

Howard I completely see where you're coming from. I don't expect $2500 performance for $300. If I had the $$ I would pick up a set of ohlins cartridges from you. In the end I don't think I could justify the expense for a frame that has to be braced to begin to function properly. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvDI2dmzDEA

 

Fork oil viscosity is all over the place. And it is the flowrate/viscosity that makes the difference.
5W in one brand can be the same as 15W in another, 7W on another....
Then there is the viscosity change as temperature changes. Makes a big difference.
Tried Belray 5W in mine with the Fab mod. Still lacking softness. I found a chart on the internet that compared fork oil, then used Belray 3W mixed with 10W to attempt to imitate Amsoil 5W. Didn't work like the real stuff.
Closest overall is Yamaha 0W, and some others. I finally just ordered Amsoil 5W and things work awesome now.
Worth looking for the chart. PM me and I could send a link. (new laptop this week so all my links are gone)


(sorry, missed this page of posts before posting myself. Fab has the chart)

 

I have the race tech also and love them 100 percent better ride

 

I have the race tech also and love them 100 percent better ride

 

I'm not claiming race tech was the best out there but I am saying it was the best choice for 300 bux. It's a way better ride from stock I guarantee that...