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Front suspension upgrade

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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 11:48 PM
  #241  
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Originally Posted by rooti
Following what was going on while you were trying to set your sag I'ld guess the .90 is going to be the best choice...Can't wait until you get it in and start playing with it.

I've decided to go back in and change the fork oil to 5w and cut my spacer another 1/4-1/2" and see how I like it before I spring for the spring. I'll let you do all the expermentation first.

Thanks Pal
You might want to hold off on the #5 oil. I've been stress testing over the past week, and I think I'm going to switch back to #10.

While I felt a much smoother ride initially, I've noticed some handling issues at high speed (over 80 mph). Nothing serious, but it's not as planted. There's no doubt the #5 smooths out rough road, including those darn lane reflectors, below 55mph. Things change once the speed picks up. I think I'd rather have a harsher ride at a lower speed in order to have more stability over 80mph.

Since I spend 99% of my time on the freeway, the thicker oil may be better for me. I still have 2 quarts of #10 in the garage, so I'm gonna change it this weekend and really get a feel for the difference before I put the .90kg spring in. If I don't like it, I'll dump it and put #5 back in with the new spring.

More to follow.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 02:38 PM
  #242  
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Don't you want to test out your new springs with the 5w before changing back? With the lighter springs you can actually set the sag properly and actually have some tension on the springs. I'm going to hold off regardless since I am changing out the bars now. I've got the new bars in and love the position. It was exactly what I was looking for. Gotta pull the tank again to get more throttle wire and get to the wiring. I ended up going with bikers choice bars, 8" tall, 8.5 pullback, and 30.5 wide. That may seem like alot of pullback to you, but my bars are 3" shorter then yours. The pullback puts me right in the same place as the stock bars but raises my arms and also straightens my wrist some. I'll post pics when I get it finished. The bonus is I don't have to take the bars off when I take the fork caps off. Big time saver.

I wouldn't have done the bars yet if it wasn't for you and the new windvest clamps. Mocked up the clamps and windvest and it will work out great. If you want my stock chrome clamps I'll send them to you.

Did you need more throttle wire when you did your bars? What was the easiest way to pull more slack?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 04:01 PM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by rooti
Don't you want to test out your new springs with the 5w before changing back? With the lighter springs you can actually set the sag properly and actually have some tension on the springs. I'm going to hold off regardless since I am changing out the bars now. I've got the new bars in and love the position. It was exactly what I was looking for. Gotta pull the tank again to get more throttle wire and get to the wiring. I ended up going with bikers choice bars, 8" tall, 8.5 pullback, and 30.5 wide. That may seem like alot of pullback to you, but my bars are 3" shorter then yours. The pullback puts me right in the same place as the stock bars but raises my arms and also straightens my wrist some. I'll post pics when I get it finished. The bonus is I don't have to take the bars off when I take the fork caps off. Big time saver.

I wouldn't have done the bars yet if it wasn't for you and the new windvest clamps. Mocked up the clamps and windvest and it will work out great. If you want my stock chrome clamps I'll send them to you.

Did you need more throttle wire when you did your bars? What was the easiest way to pull more slack?
No, the SB comes stock with longer cables and wires. I did have to run my clutch cable outside of the tree, but that was about the only change I had to make.

Not having the pull the bars to get the fork caps off makes getting the spacer height, oil level, etc. much easier!

I think I'm still going to move ahead with the oil change. I'd like to know just one change affects handling rather than 2 or 3 all at once.

When I'm finally done with the whole shebang, I'm gonna document it in a separate thread so it's easier to follow.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 07:30 AM
  #244  
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SC-Longhair
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I wanted to add my setup to this since I recently repaired a blown fork seal.

I ordered some #5 Amsoil Shock Therapy. Had it in two days, direct from Amsoil. I certainly can't complain about the combined Amsoil/UPS effort to deliver it quickly.

I was going to purchase a set of 1.0kg single rate springs from Traxxion but after talking with Dan @ Traxxion he recommended I start tweaking with the stock springs first. He mentioned the stock springs are in the .96/kg range. Just food for thought.

After I disassembled, cleaned all internal parts and reassembled using approx 30oz of #5 in each tube (service manual calls for 29.6oz for my fxdwg) and my Intiminators.

I cut new spacers using 1.25" sched 40 pvc (if I recall it has an O.D. of 1.5") and added about 1.5" of preload to each side. Oddly enough the measurements from the top of the spring to the top of the tube differed by 1/4". Didn't make sense to me at all. One side was 8.25" and the other was 8.5". So spacer lengths are 9.75" and 10.0" respectively. I wonder if the Intiminator on the lower side hadn't fully seated. I may have to double check it now to see if the measurement changed. If so I'll cut a new spacer to more closely match the other side.

I went out for a good ride last night, doing about 50mi round trip on city and highway. The bike definitely felt more stable with regards to the front end. Previously I was really losing confidence in it.

Brake dive isn't completely gone but it's quite a bit less than what I previously experienced.

The larger bumps and such in the road are still kinda harsh but I s'pose that's the compromise you make is having a suspension that is more planted. The smaller ones are barely noticeable compared to before where I felt just about everything.

I can say this...the fork oil I had in there previously (redline #5) was way too thin and after only about a year was a murky purplish compared to the bright red it was upon install.

I've thought about purchasing a set of the preload adjusters like Squid but I lack the clearance between tree and handlebars. I'm running 1.5" tall risers. Apes look stupid on tall(er) risers, at least IMO, so I guess my setup is not necessarily a good candidate.
Would be nice to have that extra level of adjustability. If I decide to swap out to a T-bar style handlebar, then I'll look into the preload adjusters.

I didn't take any photos or videos of the disassembly/assembly.

I set the forks approx 1 1/8" above the top tree. I don't usually run them that high as I had nice chrome fork cap covers but I think the slight drop in the front end helps to tame it a little. It's still no sportbike but I definitely rode with some confidence last night.

I may change the springs in the future but doesn't make sense at this point since my riding season is quickly coming to a close.

I think my bike just became fun to ride again.

[EDIT] I did take two photos of my homemade fork tube holder that I made out of a scrap piece of 2x4. If I had a band saw available it would have been much more precise but I made due with my cordless skilsaw.





I just couldn't justify spending $50+ on a fork tube holder that I could make for $0.
 

Last edited by SC-Longhair; Oct 20, 2013 at 07:57 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 09:57 AM
  #245  
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Nicely done, Vic. I have a work-mate style bench that has notches just like those you cut. Just no room in my garage for a full blown work bench right now. I envy guys with a proper set up.

That's really strange about your differing spacer length. I wonder if you would see a difference now that you've run everything together if you popped off the caps.

According to fabrik8r, the stock/progressive rate springs prevent the Intiminators from working as designed. That's the reason he advocates the single rate springs, in addition to the modification he makes to the Intiminators, with Brian's blessing from Ricor. Once I get my spring rate figured out, I may have him do the Intiminator mod. He hasn't done it for a 49mm fork yet, so I would be the guinea pig.

You might be able to fit the RSD adjusters in under your apes. Once installed, they are exactly 1" above the top of the tube. The hex adjustment bolt remains flush with the top. The only problem is you'd have to take the apes off every time you wanted to make an adjustment. I attached a pic for reference. Just food for thought.

BTW, if you start to lose that fun feeling riding again soon, you can always switch things up with that pink Caddy.
 
Attached Thumbnails Front suspension upgrade-rsd20131001_093731.jpg  
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 11:20 AM
  #246  
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I did have one intimidator that wasn't going up and down in the fork tube well. Turns out the had a few problems with that little plastic strip that goes on the outside of them. Brian told me to just trim a little off of it so it compresses more, seemed to do the trick
 
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #247  
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Despite all the good info in this thread, I'm moving my updates to IzzyRyder's Ricor/Traxxion thread to keep things more organized.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...e-springs.html
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 02:00 AM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
I wanted to add my setup to this since I recently repaired a blown fork seal.

I ordered some #5 Amsoil Shock Therapy. Had it in two days, direct from Amsoil. I certainly can't complain about the combined Amsoil/UPS effort to deliver it quickly.

I was going to purchase a set of 1.0kg single rate springs from Traxxion but after talking with Dan @ Traxxion he recommended I start tweaking with the stock springs first. He mentioned the stock springs are in the .96/kg range. Just food for thought.

After I disassembled, cleaned all internal parts and reassembled using approx 30oz of #5 in each tube (service manual calls for 29.6oz for my fxdwg) and my Intiminators.

I cut new spacers using 1.25" sched 40 pvc (if I recall it has an O.D. of 1.5") and added about 1.5" of preload to each side. Oddly enough the measurements from the top of the spring to the top of the tube differed by 1/4". Didn't make sense to me at all. One side was 8.25" and the other was 8.5". So spacer lengths are 9.75" and 10.0" respectively. I wonder if the Intiminator on the lower side hadn't fully seated. I may have to double check it now to see if the measurement changed. If so I'll cut a new spacer to more closely match the other side.

I went out for a good ride last night, doing about 50mi round trip on city and highway. The bike definitely felt more stable with regards to the front end. Previously I was really losing confidence in it.

Brake dive isn't completely gone but it's quite a bit less than what I previously experienced.

The larger bumps and such in the road are still kinda harsh but I s'pose that's the compromise you make is having a suspension that is more planted. The smaller ones are barely noticeable compared to before where I felt just about everything.

I can say this...the fork oil I had in there previously (redline #5) was way too thin and after only about a year was a murky purplish compared to the bright red it was upon install.

I've thought about purchasing a set of the preload adjusters like Squid but I lack the clearance between tree and handlebars. I'm running 1.5" tall risers. Apes look stupid on tall(er) risers, at least IMO, so I guess my setup is not necessarily a good candidate.
Would be nice to have that extra level of adjustability. If I decide to swap out to a T-bar style handlebar, then I'll look into the preload adjusters.

I didn't take any photos or videos of the disassembly/assembly.

I set the forks approx 1 1/8" above the top tree. I don't usually run them that high as I had nice chrome fork cap covers but I think the slight drop in the front end helps to tame it a little. It's still no sportbike but I definitely rode with some confidence last night.

I may change the springs in the future but doesn't make sense at this point since my riding season is quickly coming to a close.

I think my bike just became fun to ride again.

[EDIT] I did take two photos of my homemade fork tube holder that I made out of a scrap piece of 2x4. If I had a band saw available it would have been much more precise but I made due with my cordless skilsaw.





I just couldn't justify spending $50+ on a fork tube holder that I could make for $0.
This setup is really very nice. I wish I thought of that. I use a 2X4 and lever the cap on by prying it under the handlebar while a friend turns the cap in. It's a real hassle. You have to line the threads up so they are ready to start threading up because you don't have a lot of room to turn it until it starts. I don't recommend this method in the slightest. It was born of desperation.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 03:34 AM
  #249  
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Hepper
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From: Mobridge S.D./Mesa A.Z.
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newb questions. From what I can deduce from skimming through all these suspension threads is that stiffer the spring the higher the weight. also the higher viscosity oil is stiffer. but what is the significance of the actual number? .9 kg 1.1 kg and how do you figure which will be best?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 02:22 PM
  #250  
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This will give you a pretty good idea even though it is the racetech site:
Click on the link and put in your weight:
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/...Custom/2003-12
 
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