cam chain
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 46
From: East Hartford, CT
When I did my cam swap, I installed Zippers Red Shift Dual Piston Chain Tensioners.
The stock tensioners had about 1/5 worn by eye at 20K.
When I bought my Zippers they came as a kit with the Axtell oil bypass valve upgrade, I installed that too.
I see the new Zippers Cam chain tensioners don't have that option now.
They are more expensive now but what isn't? Last year I bought new Zipper inserts to swap out in the future.
Almost 40K on the clock and haven't looked at them. I plan to look at about 70K.
The stock tensioners had about 1/5 worn by eye at 20K.
When I bought my Zippers they came as a kit with the Axtell oil bypass valve upgrade, I installed that too.
I see the new Zippers Cam chain tensioners don't have that option now.
They are more expensive now but what isn't? Last year I bought new Zipper inserts to swap out in the future.
Almost 40K on the clock and haven't looked at them. I plan to look at about 70K.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
From: ct
[QUOTE=stilup;20945286]When I did my cam swap, I installed Zippers Red Shift Dual Piston Chain Tensioners.
The stock tensioners had about 1/5 worn by eye at 20K.
When I bought my Zippers they came as a kit with the Axtell oil bypass valve upgrade, I installed that too.
I see the new Zippers Cam chain tensioners don't have that option now.
They are more expensive now but what isn't? Last year I bought new Zipper inserts to swap out in the future.
Almost 40K on the clock and haven't looked at them. I plan to look at about 70K. DDdjjss hello not sure if you received my message. I am new on this. Just wanted to say thank you for that information. I have seen those tensioners before they look like they will do a lot better job. Ill remember that when I pick up my conversion kit in a week . I am putting wood to W6 Kim chefs in with new can play oil pump sprockets change total conversion. I will pick up those double cam tensioners they look very strong. Thank you again.
The stock tensioners had about 1/5 worn by eye at 20K.
When I bought my Zippers they came as a kit with the Axtell oil bypass valve upgrade, I installed that too.
I see the new Zippers Cam chain tensioners don't have that option now.
They are more expensive now but what isn't? Last year I bought new Zipper inserts to swap out in the future.
Almost 40K on the clock and haven't looked at them. I plan to look at about 70K. DDdjjss hello not sure if you received my message. I am new on this. Just wanted to say thank you for that information. I have seen those tensioners before they look like they will do a lot better job. Ill remember that when I pick up my conversion kit in a week . I am putting wood to W6 Kim chefs in with new can play oil pump sprockets change total conversion. I will pick up those double cam tensioners they look very strong. Thank you again.
I had cams in my '14 done earlier this year with a little more than 24k miles on my bike and the original tensioners were absolutely in need of replacement when the cams were done. I tend to be the second guy in my example. So for myself I would consider a 25-30k mile maintenance interval on tensioners, or 10 years. whichever comes first.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 587
Likes: 92
From: Stockholm
Old thread here, but important subject, I guess. I replaced cam, cam plate, pump, cam tensioner pads last winter on my Dyna 2006 at around 13.000 miles, and although my tensioners are hydraulic, one of them were pretty much worn.
This was a surprise, but I think it was caused by low oil pressure and sumping, which I experienced before replacing the components. (At times when the engine was hot, I used to have the red oil light flickering at idle and bike was also dull and lethargic in throttle response, even when just reaching normal working engine temperature.)
I think the hydraulic tensioners are pretty good, but they probably need sufficient oil pressure and good circulation to work well. At idle my pressure were down under 3 PSI at hot engine. Now I have never seen it under 10 PSI - not even after been sitting long in traffic jams at really hot summer days.
This is only my own guess off course, but it seems logical to me. Low oil pressure and sumping cannot be good to any engine.
This was a surprise, but I think it was caused by low oil pressure and sumping, which I experienced before replacing the components. (At times when the engine was hot, I used to have the red oil light flickering at idle and bike was also dull and lethargic in throttle response, even when just reaching normal working engine temperature.)
I think the hydraulic tensioners are pretty good, but they probably need sufficient oil pressure and good circulation to work well. At idle my pressure were down under 3 PSI at hot engine. Now I have never seen it under 10 PSI - not even after been sitting long in traffic jams at really hot summer days.
This is only my own guess off course, but it seems logical to me. Low oil pressure and sumping cannot be good to any engine.
Last edited by OakMountainRider; Dec 1, 2022 at 07:14 AM.
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 587
Likes: 92
From: Stockholm
Old thread here, but important subject, I guess. I replaced cam, cam plate, pump, cam tensioner pads last winter on my Dyna 2006 at around 13.000 miles, and although my tensioners are hydraulic, one of them were pretty much worn.
This was a surprise, but I think it was caused by low oil pressure and sumping, which I experienced before replacing the components. (At times when the engine was hot, I used to have the red oil light flickering at idle and bike was also dull and lethargic in throttle response, even when just reaching normal working engine temperature.)
I think the hydraulic tensioners are pretty good, but they probably need sufficient oil pressure and good circulation to work well. At idle my pressure were down under 3 PSI at hot engine. Now I have never seen it under 10 PSI - not even after been sitting long in traffic jams at really hot summer days.
This is only my own guess off course, but it seems logical to me. Low oil pressure and sumping cannot be good to any engine.
This was a surprise, but I think it was caused by low oil pressure and sumping, which I experienced before replacing the components. (At times when the engine was hot, I used to have the red oil light flickering at idle and bike was also dull and lethargic in throttle response, even when just reaching normal working engine temperature.)
I think the hydraulic tensioners are pretty good, but they probably need sufficient oil pressure and good circulation to work well. At idle my pressure were down under 3 PSI at hot engine. Now I have never seen it under 10 PSI - not even after been sitting long in traffic jams at really hot summer days.
This is only my own guess off course, but it seems logical to me. Low oil pressure and sumping cannot be good to any engine.
This is how my outer pad looked like. Although in a hydraulic tensioner, the pad has started to break down.
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