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2012 FXDF problems, am I crazy?

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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 10:41 AM
  #11  
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It's in the tune man. All of what you describe is in the tune.

You can pull the mufflers off and see the cat in the collector. Beat it out with a long screw driver or bar..fire it up and blow that thing out.

You might also consider just getting a full tune done with a tuner and a pro to do the work, they should be able to take all the surge out and make it run smoother/cooler.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 10:47 AM
  #12  
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If the tune is out of whack from what factory settings should be, is that something I should have dealer address since it's under warranty, and is that something they can diagnose and fix? Or are you saying the factory settings are as they should be, just no good?

Any recommendations on what type of tuner?

Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 10:49 AM
  #13  
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Another thing is, when slowing down with throttle closed, instead of just normally gradually slowing down, the bike jerkily(?) stutters and drops speed.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 10:55 AM
  #14  
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Without riding it, hard to say whether that is normal or not. I ride an 09 with a PC-V for a tuner...

in 2012 they changed the CPU so it will feel/act different from your 08. I'm sure it is within factory specs...and the dealer will just say that as well.

As for a recommendation for a tuner:

Lots of happy people with the Power Vision and if it was out I would have bought it. Lots of happy people with the TTS, SERT, Thundermax.

Maybe ask around for someone who is versed in tuning HD's on their dyno and ask what tuner they prefer...that can make a difference in having a dyno guy with experience with a particular tuner to get the most out of it..good luck.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 10:57 AM
  #15  
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Thanks for your response. I'll start looking around for a local guy that might be able to help.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:03 AM
  #16  
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From your first post and the symptoms your describe, it certainly sounds like it needs to be tuned by a professional. BUT then in your last posting where you say that the bike doesn't slow down gradually and that it jerks and stutters. That doesn't make any sense to me. I'll throw out a couple of very random ideas: Are your brakes properly adjusted? They aren't grabbing or sticking are they. What happens if you ride along about 30 mph and then get in neutral and shut the bike off and let it coast to a stop? Any jerking or shuddering? IF the brakes are sticking, that may make the bike feel like it is surging and jerking around under normal riding conditions. Also, check the little "star" adjuster on the throttle housing and make sure it's not dragging or messing things up.

Do you have any friends that have bikes who can test ride it for you and see if they feel anything abnormal? Anyway, Good luck with it and report back with the results.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:05 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 07bobber
I think your crazy for trading in an 08 for a 12 model....
Me too
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by busboyblues
Other than the possibility that EPA may start requiring testing in the future, is there any downside to cutting out the cat? Also, I still have a brand new full exhaust from the 2008. Could I switch them out, or do the sensors and stuff not match up on them?

The things is, I don't even know where to begin. Could it be something with the throttle position sensor, or even transmission related? I can't even diagnose it properly.
Only positive things will come out of getting rid of the cats....run cooler, make more power, sound better, etc.

Your 2008 head pipe will bolt up on your 2012 fine, but the O2 bungs are a different size and location, so unless you have adapters then it will not work. Pre '12 Dynas used the 18mm 2-wire Bosch O2 sensors, '12s and newer use the Delphi heated 12mm 4-wire sensors. Not exchangeable.

I recommend the following: SE Pro Super Tuner, SE stage 1 breather, V&H pro pipe, and a good dyno tune.
Don't care what anyone says, the bike will not run optimal without a good tuner and dyno tune. Not only do AFRs need to be adjusted, but timing as well. This can only be done with a full tuner, and can only be dialed in properly with a dyno tune on your bike. Canned maps get it close, but without the dyno tune it's not optimal.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:37 AM
  #19  
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Thanks for all of your responses. I hadn't considered the brakes, but I will try what you recommend. I'll also look into the tuning. I'll let you guys know how things turn out.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 03:51 PM
  #20  
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Some places to start, Rinehart,Cycle shack or D&D for exhaust. Dyno Jet for a tuner. The throttle by wire system can be manipulated to get better response as well.
 
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