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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
If it were me and still under warranty I wouldn't give dealer any peace until I was satisfied with bike. You are paying for it. And if you have any other dealers within a reasonable distance try contacting them.
I agree with others that the issue is the tune. First thing you need to do is get rid of that stock exhaust. I had the same exhaust on my 2010 fat bob, and there is no way to get rid of the cat other than pulling the entire exhaust. Sucks, but look at it this way, you'll be freeing up your engine and helping it last longer and get a better ride.
Also, Harley's run LEAN from the factory. I imagine that any bikes after 2012 must be running at the bare minimum afr needed to meet EPA specs. With the engine displacement I imagine it runs hot as hell.
A lean bike will give you surging, while a bike that's too rich will ride like a slow pig.
I would look into getting a fuel management device. There are many out there (new or used) that are good. SERT, PC-V, etc. Just stay away from the fuelpak. That thing is garbage.
I'm not familiar with the throttle by wire system, is that the internal wiring? I just have the regular external cables as far as I know...
Thanks to everyone for the responses.
Is the the $150 remap from HD a waste of time & money?
I haven't heard many good reviews of it, but the dealer is not recommending I try that...
IMO, yes.
Get a good tuner (SE Pro Super Tuner, or TTS Mastertune) and a proper dyno tune. Don't waste money on the EPA friendly download. All it does is compensate for the addition of exhaust and breather and your bike will still run at the same AFR as it did from the factory, which won't solve your issues.
I had the same exhaust on my 2010 fat bob, and there is no way to get rid of the cat other than pulling the entire exhaust.
Bull Pucky, this is a 2012 FXDF pipe, re-welded with a piece of marine grade stainless after Bi-metal hole saw surgery. Others have done it also, and much nicer looking than my hack job. This pipe works great now. However, the OP can go this much easier route and just switch out his '12 pipe for his '08 with this kit:http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/.../1861-0594.htm
Last edited by Loner88; Oct 15, 2012 at 11:27 AM.
Reason: add link
I think you should keep at the dealer. No reason to accept the bike not running correctly. Mine is an 11 and it ran smoothly when it was new and in stock condition. If you don't and spend a lot of money on mods and are still not happy the dealer will tell you it is the mods you made causing the issues. Ask if they have another FXDF you can ride to see if it is you or your bike. I would also take the Xieds off when you take it in so they can have a baseline. I would not throw money at it until it runs smoothly. Then you can optimize the motor with pipes, put your Xieds back on or get a dyno tune and an AC. Do you have another dealer you can take it to? You may have to take the issue up the chain to get something done but you should be happy with a new bike or they need to make you happy.
Hi guys, just an update: I installed the '08 exhaust with the adapters that Loner88 suggested (thanks!). Didn't even have to change any wiring as the back matched up and the XIED in front gave me plenty of wire to spare. I am also fit my RAMFLO 400 a/c on, had to drill/cover some holes to adapt it since it was originally set up for a 2004 Carb Sportster. So, as of now, I have the 2008 exhaust, XIED's and Ramflo a/c set up. I'm not sure if the 400 is big enough for the Dyna engine but will give it a try if it ever stops raining. Still looking for a local tuner. I'll update once I get to ride. Thanks!
I had a simular problem, but my engine would cut out. I read, the Temperture sensor would cause the sympton. I replaced the Temperture Sensor and the hesitation has ceased. the temperture sensor screws in behind front jug. cost 45 dollars
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