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Just ordered a lowering kit, and 14" apes...

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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 06:44 PM
  #11  
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From: Beyond Fucital
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Low fuel light DMS. You could still have 1.5 gals. in the tank. Siphon it out. Then run dry. You;l spill less. There's a plug for the fuel gauge and some hoses that'll need disconnecting. Take pictures and notes.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 06:49 PM
  #12  
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I've removed tank twice on my '09. Not hard but does require a bit more than what you might antiipate. You're correct about the bolts infront and behind the tank and you have the fuel line underneath. Pull the coupling up and hose down (I think...or something like that).

You should have a connector somewhere under your gas gauge as well so disconnect that.

As for fuel line that runs from one side of tank to another I bought two cheap vice grips, crimped the line, and cut it. Then I got a gas can, uncrimped one of the vice grips and let the fuel flow into the gas can. Because I had a small gas can, I filled it, crimped the line again with the vice grips and poured the fuel in my truck. With an empty gas can, I continued the process until my motorcycle tank was completely empty. I made sure to keep some fuel in my gas can.

fuel line is cheap so buy extra and new hose clamps.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 06:57 PM
  #13  
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on a different note, I'm running 14" apes and have 1 lowering blocks so you can get the idea of what kind of rear lean you'll be looking at if you don't lower the front suspension (I'm running a 21" front wheel though, so not comparing apples to apples).
 
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 07:28 PM
  #14  
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From: danbury
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I saw that, I ordere shocks instead of the blocks I just didn't know how much I can trust them when I ride with a passenger on the back.

I really would like to remove the tank, but I think ill just loosen the bolts and move it slightly back...my brother is an E-2 electrican so hopefully he will be there to help me with the wiring, everything else I'm pretty darn good on besides electrical.

As far as your apes go, did you run longer cables?

I still need to order a stage 1 air cleaner and a power commander.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 07:36 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 201048
I saw that, I ordere shocks instead of the blocks I just didn't know how much I can trust them when I ride with a passenger on the back.

I really would like to remove the tank, but I think ill just loosen the bolts and move it slightly back...my brother is an E-2 electrican so hopefully he will be there to help me with the wiring, everything else I'm pretty darn good on besides electrical.

As far as your apes go, did you run longer cables?

I still need to order a stage 1 air cleaner and a power commander.
you can definitely place wooden blocks inbetween the the tank and frame to hold the tank up and out of your way...

I had my bars installed at the local indy shop and they did replace clutch cable and throttle cables, but I've read in several threads that say you might get away with stock, depending on type of apes.

no need to replace any electrical wires and I have stock brake lines.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:33 PM
  #16  
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From: danbury
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Well I got the lowering burly smaller shocks installed tonight, super easy.

I got the tank removed, which also was super easy.

I'm going to cut the wires and resplice them back together under the frame, it seems to be the easiest way to get them done. Got the chubby 14s in tonight can't wait to get them installed.

And I have the signal relocating kit, which seems super confusing to install.

And anyone know what size the fuel line is?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:41 PM
  #17  
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I installed my apes myself and did not remove my tank. My wires ran into my neck right infront of my tank. Mine is a Super Glide, may be different from yours. Another thing that may be helpfull is to use some kind off lube on your wires, push and pull at the same time and it will be gravy. good luck and have fun. Post up some pics.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #18  
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From: danbury
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What size apes?

I removed my tank because I wanted all the room I could need splicing in the wires...it literally only took 10 minutes to remove the tank...and with my luck something would slip and hit the tank :/

My brother has pulling lube in his garage and a few different types of snakes so we should be able to get them thru the bars fairly easy.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #19  
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My apes are 18's. I pulled my wires with out my bars installed. I cut my wires in 1 inch staggars, do not cut them all in the same place, Then I soldered in 10" pieces and soldered my factory plugs back on. The reason for the stagger is so you dont have a big ball of splices. If you stagger your splices it makes your bundle of wires just a little larger than factory. If your wires run through your top tripple tree, just splice your wire extentions on then mount the bars, then splice your factory plug back on. Take care not to get the wires mixed up. There is a thread on here as to taking the plug apart and removing the wires, but I got tired of pissing with it and just cut a soldered everything. If you have any more questions, I will try to help you out as much as I can. good luck.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 08:29 PM
  #20  
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Why order and pay for a chubby 14" outlaw? Just break them out of jail for free.

Only problem is finding a 14" one...











When a friend helped put on my 14" apes we didn't remove the tank, just unbolted the front and shoved some rags underneath to get to the wires. Running them through the bars was pretty easy too. He used a fishing line with a sinker then dropped it through the bars then attached the wires and pulled them back through . He made it seem so damn easy but if I had done it by myself it would have probably taken me 3-4 times as long.
 

Last edited by PigInaBlanket; Jan 9, 2013 at 08:33 PM.
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