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Rear light woes continue.....

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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 10:21 PM
  #11  
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Thanks for the inputs guys, I will do some more t/s tomorrow, got to head to bed for now. I will post what I find out.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 12:12 AM
  #12  
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Down by the rear master cylinder is the rear tail light switch. It is adjustable. I have seen them lose-backed off too far and the light would not come on but if it is too tight it will stay on.
Easy to check. With no cost.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 06:01 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by kennygsuperglide
Take a sharpened pensil and press your brake button behind your lever, the button works backward, If the brake light goes out when you press the button, then your switch is good. you will then have to figure out why your lever isn't making contact.
There should be a little wedge (spring clip) in the r/h switch housing that keeps the brake switch positioned. If it's not there or to loose the brake light will stay on all the time.

Here's a link to one of my older posts on this subject:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/7378764-post4.html
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 07:28 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by FXD2003Rider
There should be a little wedge (spring clip) in the r/h switch housing that keeps the brake switch positioned. If it's not there or to loose the brake light will stay on all the time.

Here's a link to one of my older posts on this subject:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/7378764-post4.html

This or the stuck brake light switch is more than likely the culprit. This would explain why both bulbs burned at once. Operating both filaments for extended periods will burn the bulbs. There's no other good explanation for power to exist in the line AND both bulbs burning out.

A short should blow a fuse but bypass the bulb socket (leaving the bulbs intact, unless intermittent power kept sparking the system.)
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 07:41 AM
  #15  
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go to the rear brake switch(not on handle bars)... it has 2 wires, unplug 1 wire... if light goes out , switch is bad... as others stated , one filament is lites and other is brakes ...
 
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 11:22 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by WideGlideFever
...I put apes on...

The insulation on the wire running to the license plate has been damaged due to the tire rubbing against it...
Com'on. Check your mods and known wire damage, first.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 10:00 AM
  #17  
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I would add that I was going through bulbs at least one amonth and sometimes the filaments would fail to such a slight degree from thevibrations I presume that they would work correctly occasionally – sometimes theblinker and sometimes the running light portion. I also had issues with my rear wiring to behonest too. When they replaced my rearfender they didn’t get my wiring harness back up in the clips very good and itfell on the tire and got chewed up – had to bandage it back together.

I finally wised up and bought some LED replacement bulbs andhaven’t ridden a lot since, but they seem to be holding up so far. The LED lights are way cooler anyway –brighter and just look cool. They make anumber of varieties of them from what I gather. I just picked some up from a local parts store, but you can order reallyfancy ones online.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 08:26 PM
  #18  
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Everything is good to go now thanks to my new best friend Joe! The bad ground/short, was actually coming from the license plate light wire. Though I new the wire insulation was damaged from the tire rubbing on it, I didnt realize that when I threw some electrical tape on as a bandaid, that I actually put the two wires in contact with each other.

The other problem was the brake lights not working and that came from the handlebar switch housing as mentioned by another on this thread. Basically something got out of position.

So I am back on the road and happier than ever! Many thanks to Joe who saved me a lot of frustration and a lot of $$$.
 
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