Spongy brake help!
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Joined: Mar 2011
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Spongy brake help!
I just did a handlebar swap, successfully, and found out that my old brake line, a Russell, would still fit the new bars. I swapped back to the Russel steel line, bled the system, got clear non air filled fluid coming from the bleeder valve. But when I squeeze the brake lever it compresses almost all the way to my grip. Brakes have way less braking power, will barely stop and feel way spongy anything above 10 mph. Checked all the fittings, no leaks, no bad seals. Any other ideas to help before i say F it and buy a new system? Thanks for the help gents!
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 366
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From: Rota, Spain
When I changed out my front brake line, it was a major PITA to get the brake feel and performance back. It took me a good 2 hours of bleeding till all was well. I have read on this forum that patience is the key.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,629
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From: East Hartford, CT
I purchased a brake line bleeder from Sears
It works great and then it still takes time to get all the air bubbles out.
With a small line connected to the bleeder and the reservoir cover off, pump new brake fluid in till the bubbles stop then you can wiggle the handle a bit and see more bubbles.
it does take patients.
Make sure your using the correct fluid.
I use DOT4 Brake fluid, yours may differ..
It works great and then it still takes time to get all the air bubbles out.
With a small line connected to the bleeder and the reservoir cover off, pump new brake fluid in till the bubbles stop then you can wiggle the handle a bit and see more bubbles.
it does take patients.
Make sure your using the correct fluid.
I use DOT4 Brake fluid, yours may differ..
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Haha right on man!! Good to see other Devil Dogs in here!!
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Good deal I'll do it some more today man post again. Problem is idk what dot fluid the guy before me used and I'm using dot 5 as recommended, so may need to flush the whole system.
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: sand mountain Alabama
If the fluid is over a year old I suggest flushing the system.
when adding/changing a break line air can get trapped at the banjo fitting on the reservoir or master cylinder. I also agree with leaving the reservoir top off and tieing the break lever under pressure over night. I just did a full system with link breaks and had a fit getting the front break solid. I had to do the same thing to get it solid. No matter how much I pumped they stayed rather soft. they worked okay but not solid like they should be. Back breaks were solid. It was only the front breaks.
just a thought
dd
when adding/changing a break line air can get trapped at the banjo fitting on the reservoir or master cylinder. I also agree with leaving the reservoir top off and tieing the break lever under pressure over night. I just did a full system with link breaks and had a fit getting the front break solid. I had to do the same thing to get it solid. No matter how much I pumped they stayed rather soft. they worked okay but not solid like they should be. Back breaks were solid. It was only the front breaks.
just a thought
dd