When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
i have a 2012 dyna street bob and i would like to upgrade the suspension (front and rear) so the bike can get even better. i wanted to lift the bike so i can turn lower. so my questions are what shocks do u recommend for the rear (and i need them tall)? what springs do you recommend for the front? can you lift the front end of the bike? what fork braces or steering stabilizers would you recommend? and where would you get the above listed parts ?
For the rear, works performance makes an economical shock that performs well. Ricor does as well. From there the price increases significantly to Ohlins and JRI.
You can expect to easily spend $450 on shocks. The front end setup in running, as described in the thread, can run as cheap as $300 for springs and valves, up to around $750 to add a fork brace and preload adjusters. The options to increase performance from there are, once again, substantially more expensive. Howard at motorcycle metal builds an Ohlins 30mm drop in cartidge, but I beleive it's upwards of $1500.
If you are going to be pushing it hard in the corners, personally I would, and I am starting my handling upgrades with True Track stabilizers for the front and rear engine mounts. Sputhe stabilizers are very similar and are liked by many.
right on ill look into that thread and ill definitely check out those stabilizers
Put the True Track stabilizers on: took me about 3 hours for the rear and 45 mins for the front. It was not too complicated, it is just so space limited for the rear install, just takes a slow pace and patience.
Only been able to take a short ride so far, tried to do as much cornering as I could - no more wobbles. The only way I can describe the handling now is the bike just seems to be more solid and working together better. You just lean and the bike seems to stay on track and not stray at all. Good luck on your decisions!
Last edited by HD Pilot; Feb 8, 2013 at 04:34 PM.
Reason: Spelling
Back to shock height, to gain more ground clearance, a 13" or 13.5" shock will do this for you. I am a firm believer in getting what you pay for with suspension and I have run quite a few different rear shock on varying bikes. What shocks boil down to is how good of a ride do you want?
The most important mod you can do to your front forks is ricor intimidators. I don't think it would be a good idea to lift your front...your not going to turn any sharper.
You can adjust how stiff or soft you want it when you adjust your front end sag.
When you do your rear shocks you can go 13 or 13 1/2" and that will give you a great ride and give you added travel.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.