Starter button dead and no spark
Starter button dead and no spark
1980 FXB Sturgis - Good battery, new starter (old one was shot), clutch was dragging and would not fully release (after proper adjustment, so I installed a Rivera eng. Primo Pro clutch (works great), also disassembled and cleaned S&S Super B and adjusted pretty close.
So I fired it up, let it warm up, tested brakes, went down the street and back pulled into the driveway and it died.
Starter would turn some but would not fire up.
Today starter button does not work 13V on battery 7V @ starter button - has continuity when button pushed, Run/Off switch has continuity. Starter spins fine and engages when jumped @ solenoid, with ign. switch on but no spark. Swapped coil to another bike it started and ran fine so not the coil.
Is there something that could cause the start circuit and spark to fail?
So I fired it up, let it warm up, tested brakes, went down the street and back pulled into the driveway and it died.
Starter would turn some but would not fire up.
Today starter button does not work 13V on battery 7V @ starter button - has continuity when button pushed, Run/Off switch has continuity. Starter spins fine and engages when jumped @ solenoid, with ign. switch on but no spark. Swapped coil to another bike it started and ran fine so not the coil.
Is there something that could cause the start circuit and spark to fail?
Well at least I don't feel so bad, because lots of people didn't pop up with an obvious answer - although it might have bruised my pride, I would have used it.
Sure wish an Old Skool guy or two - or even a sharp newby would chime in with some ideas. I sure don't know it all and I'm not to good to listen to any good suggestions.
What I am is Old Skool and haven't taken a bike for anyone else to work on for over 35 years and I don't want to start now.
Sure wish an Old Skool guy or two - or even a sharp newby would chime in with some ideas. I sure don't know it all and I'm not to good to listen to any good suggestions.
What I am is Old Skool and haven't taken a bike for anyone else to work on for over 35 years and I don't want to start now.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 100,455
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From: Centennial, CO
Just from from what I've learned in here to look for: Connection corrosion in your key switch, corrosion in the on/off switch, broken/grounded wires in those areas. Hope this helps!
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,749
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From: sand mountain Alabama
Crank sensor will do that.
With only 7 volts at the switch I would think you have a bad ground or battery/ cables need to be checked again.
With only 7 volts at the switch I would think you have a bad ground or battery/ cables need to be checked again.
Last edited by dirtdobber; Mar 17, 2013 at 10:50 AM.
Headed to the manual for crank sensor.
If you have time look at my thread on the tech / electrical.
I put much more detail - also did more test this morning and by jumpering Run/Off gy/wh and Start bk/wh she did start.
After 10 min @ idle and 1000 - 2000 rpms she died. No start, engage, spin, or click. 13V
If you have time look at my thread on the tech / electrical.
I put much more detail - also did more test this morning and by jumpering Run/Off gy/wh and Start bk/wh she did start.
After 10 min @ idle and 1000 - 2000 rpms she died. No start, engage, spin, or click. 13V
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 73
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80 sturgis
its a shovelhead,there are no sensers, check your relay, there is also a fused link, been a while since i had a sturgis,good bikes, i put ford relays on my flhs.
your manual will show you where its located in wire diagram,should be close to the battery box, it will have 3 wires coming off it . match it up at auto parts store , hope it helps
your manual will show you where its located in wire diagram,should be close to the battery box, it will have 3 wires coming off it . match it up at auto parts store , hope it helps
So true
Thanks HawgFarmer - though there was no sensor but checked my diagram anyway. Relay is bolted to the bottom of the battery tray. Mine has 4 wires, small square not like the old round Ford ones I am familiar with. Had a replacement (new but doesn't mean it was good or didn't do the same). Will check auto parts to see if they can match - surely cheaper than the HD shop .
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From: sand mountain Alabama
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From: North Florida
You have a voltage drop somewhere usally a bad conection or broke wire.
Get out you schematic and go through your connections with a volt meter until you find the drop
That is why it dies the connection goes from bad to open.
Get out you schematic and go through your connections with a volt meter until you find the drop
That is why it dies the connection goes from bad to open.
Last edited by Harleycruiser; Mar 18, 2013 at 04:51 PM.
Dirtdobber I appreciate the thought - and I checked anyway - hey could have been it but the old girl is a little before that.
Harleycruiser I have been checking all wires - switches, replaced several connectors and cleaned everything - haven't found the break or short yet - I did find 2 - 1white and 1 black 12Ga solid wires ( replaced them ) - I guess one of the previous owners was an electrician or really cheap. Still testing and trying to find any pinch points or bare wire. Thanks for the reply.
Harleycruiser I have been checking all wires - switches, replaced several connectors and cleaned everything - haven't found the break or short yet - I did find 2 - 1white and 1 black 12Ga solid wires ( replaced them ) - I guess one of the previous owners was an electrician or really cheap. Still testing and trying to find any pinch points or bare wire. Thanks for the reply.