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Progreesive fork spring install questions

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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 09:55 AM
  #11  
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rs87277
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thanks for the advice
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 11:47 AM
  #12  
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I've just ordered the drop in kit myself, so thanks guys for all this extra info!

Paul, 35mm socket? I didn't expect metric on a Harley, thanks for the heads up!
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 11:52 AM
  #13  
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Be very careful putting the caps back in. The threads ar very fine and they need to be level in the fork tube or they are easily cross-threaded. (I read in a thread here that a guy rotated his backwards until he heard a click and then screwed them in.)
Unless you got some really good hearing you may not hear it click but you can feel it. That is what I do
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 02:16 PM
  #14  
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So I called back. Told the tech exactly what I had done. He then explained pre-load to me and said, "look, the easiest way to figure it is this - measure your fluid, then put the springs in, then the spacers. The spacers will be sticking out above the edge of your forks. Mark the spacers where they are even with the edge of your forks, remove and cut them so they are flush, then drop in the spacers and install the caps."
I can almost guarantee if you follow this advise you will not have enough preload unless you weigh 50 pounds. You can't properly measure how much actual preload you have until you put it all back together and measure it.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 02:17 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by chap!
I've just ordered the drop in kit myself, so thanks guys for all this extra info!

Paul, 35mm socket? I didn't expect metric on a Harley, thanks for the heads up!
There is more metric on the damn things than you realize!
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 03:00 PM
  #16  
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The forks themselves are Japanese - made by Showa.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 12:04 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Gommee
If it is the drop in lowering springs, you need to figure out how much you want to lower it. You have to cut the spacers to match amount lowering distance. I used a pipe cutter. Loosen top triple tree pinch bolts (do one side at a time). I used masking tape on the fork caps so that I did not scratch them. Loosen caps slowly and carefully using your hand to press down while turning. The springs pressure can shoot the cap across your shop. Cover your tank! Depending on bike, refer to your manual, measure the distance from the top of the compressed fork to the top of the fork oil. I took a zip tie and cut the top off of it then put it on the cut off piece. Measured the distance from the zip part down the length of the length and put a mark. Slid the "tool" into the fork using the zip portion as a stop against the top of the fork.
This is the way it's done! + one!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 01:18 AM
  #18  
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I did the front springs on my Sporty. The Dyna is the same way. The easiest way to get the caps back on is to mark on the cap and fork where the threads engage with a Sharpie. It's easy to do when the bike's on the lift and the spacer isn't installed yet. I even marked the threads of the cap. When you're ready, insert the cap just before the threads engage and push straight down using the socket. Once the cap is seated, turn to tighten. You'll see that it goes on easily.
 
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