And the shameless plug.....

 

The "click" type torque wrenches are far the easiest to use, dial in the torque you want, and you feel a click when it hits it - just have to remember to dial them back to zero when finished so they don't lose accuracy because there's a load on the mechanism all the time. You hear bad things about Harbor Freight's Chinese stuff, but I've tested a couple of them and they were within a couple pounds, plenty accurate enough - and way more accurate than your arm. They have coupon specials for $10 each from 1/4" to 1/2" several times a year; for that price, get all three. If you only got one, I'd get the 3/8 drive, but the 1/2" drive is best for things like those pulley bolts (and use red loctite on those!). When you have multiple bolts, like on the pulley, tighten them about 20lbs at a time, and alternate; do one at like 12 o'clock, next at 6, next at 3, next at 9, etc. Takes longer, but you get a more even tightening, less risk of getting something cocked off center or even cracking something. You'd be surprised sometimes how much you over tighten by hand; my daughter snapped off a caliper bolt on her car, and wasn't even straining. When you torque a bolt, you're actually putting some stretch on the threads; doesn't take a lot more to warp the threads - ever have one that was real tight all the way out? It was overtightened, threads warped (you can even see the angle change sometimes) and that bolt is ruined; reuse it, and even if you don't break it or strip the threads on it, it could fail at any time. Of course, if you have self locking nuts on a bolt, then it'll be tight coming apart anyway.

Something to keep in mind - you might think stainless bolts and screws will look better, be less prone to rusting, but stainless isn't as strong as high grade steel (lot's of applications on a Harley should be grade 8, strong stuff!) and isn't suitable for things like drive pulleys. Ok for cover screws or anything plastic. Most stainless stuff you'll find in hardware stores have no grade markings on them - that's soft stuff. If I can't get it tight enough with a screwdriver, I don't use stainless on my bikes as a general rule.

 

He's still posting today, or I wouldn't have posted anything. We all had to learn sometime.

 

I have 3 torque wrenches! I use them all but the one I use alot is the Craftsman Inch Pound! I agree...they are pease of mind in Ft. Lb. I read in here that 65 Ft. Lbs. for sproket bolts is right! Will check the Service Manual when I mount the sproket with grade 8 flange type CAD plated bolts at tire change time! They look gold plated!

 

If you want CAD plated bolts to stay that way when they're exposed to weather, dab some clear on them after you've installed them. Used a lot of them on aircraft - they get grungy looking after a while. They'll polish back up, but it's a hassle to get all of a six sided bolt head, and you'll wear through the CAD eventually.

 

Good point...thanks!

 

.......torque wrenches are cheap insurance as well as a manual do not assemble any critical fasteners without one, the manual will have all the torque spec's for them as well. remember pulley bolts are one time use once they come out tiem to replace them. grade 8 7/16-14 X 2 1/2" and blue loctite

 

16-18 ft lbs for front rotors with blue loc tite. 23-27 ft lbs for rear rotors with blue loc tite. 65-70 ft lbs for the pulley with RED loc tite.