Trick ignition
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 30
From: Ashburn, VA
So you no longer need the key to start the bike? Just flip the switch and have your FOB nearby????
If so, I may do this. I hate my key FOB dangling in the wind but I prefer the location in the neck over the dash. Keeps the dash simple/clean.
If so, I may do this. I hate my key FOB dangling in the wind but I prefer the location in the neck over the dash. Keeps the dash simple/clean.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Northern California
Those considering this mod might want to consider using the run/stop switch instead of an additional toggle switch.
Disclaimer, I looked into doing this a couple of years ago but never got around to actually doing it.
According to my electrical diagram (08 fxdl)the run/stop switch is run in series with the ignition switch, so all you have to do is rewire the run/stop switch circuit, at the ignition switch, to change the run/stop circuit from a series circuit to a parallel circuit. That should do it, just hit the run/stop to run then hit the start switch (with the key fob with you) and you're good to go. The fork lock is still an option when parking in shady places.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 203
Likes: 7
From: Arizona
Good clear diagram.
Those considering this mod might want to consider using the run/stop switch instead of an additional toggle switch.
Disclaimer, I looked into doing this a couple of years ago but never got around to actually doing it.
According to my electrical diagram (08 fxdl)the run/stop switch is run in series with the ignition switch, so all you have to do is rewire the run/stop switch circuit, at the ignition switch, to change the run/stop circuit from a series circuit to a parallel circuit. That should do it, just hit the run/stop to run then hit the start switch (with the key fob with you) and you're good to go. The fork lock is still an option when parking in shady places.
Those considering this mod might want to consider using the run/stop switch instead of an additional toggle switch.
Disclaimer, I looked into doing this a couple of years ago but never got around to actually doing it.
According to my electrical diagram (08 fxdl)the run/stop switch is run in series with the ignition switch, so all you have to do is rewire the run/stop switch circuit, at the ignition switch, to change the run/stop circuit from a series circuit to a parallel circuit. That should do it, just hit the run/stop to run then hit the start switch (with the key fob with you) and you're good to go. The fork lock is still an option when parking in shady places.
Last edited by Slvr764; Apr 10, 2013 at 07:45 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 30
From: Ashburn, VA
To each his own. I added the toggle so I wouldnt need to have a key jingling around dinging up the neck of the bike. Not that it makes a difference after owning the bike since 07 but it's definately more convenient to just flip a switch and go vice hang a key, flip a switch and go. And, I'm not sure re-wiring the stock switch would make it anymore convenient.
This would probably be the easiest way to go.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,949
Likes: 150
From: South of Mordor
Ok, so after do some schematic reading in my service manual, this is what I was able to put together for why the toggle switch can only be used inline with the ignition wires at the neck. At the Neck we have A, B and C connections as the OP mentioned. A is the Ingnition wire that supplies power out of the switch when turned to "IGN" to a multitued of places, B is where that Battery power comes into the switch (constent hot), C is the Accessory powered devices when the switch is turn to ACC. When the switch is turned to ACC it only supplies power to the "Customer Accessory Connection", horn, left and right turn switches and lights, plate light and or tail lamp and position head lamp (HDI only). When the Ignition switch is turned to "IGN" power is supplied to Fuse box which splits the power to the following fuses "P&E IGN", "IGN", "INSTR", "LIGHTS", and "ENG CTL" along with direct power to the "Start Relay". Looking at the schematic I put together, which makes it a little easier to follow the path of the wires. From what I can put together, putting the toggle switch between "B" and "A", is the only place you can put it so power is continued to be supplied to everything that needs power.
Or to make my previous drawing the correct path to follow.
Or to make my previous drawing the correct path to follow.
Last edited by blueangel73; Apr 11, 2013 at 08:16 AM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 203
Likes: 7
From: Arizona
Ok, so after do some schematic reading in my service manual, this is what I was able to put together for why the toggle switch can only be used inline with the ignition wires at the neck. At the Neck we have A, B and C connections as the OP mentioned. A is the Ingnition wire that supplies power out of the switch when turned to "IGN" to a multitued of places, B is where that Battery power comes into the switch (constent hot), C is the Accessory powered devices when the switch is turn to ACC. When the switch is turned to ACC it only supplies power to the "Customer Accessory Connection", horn, left and right turn switches and lights, plate light and or tail lamp and position head lamp (HDI only). When the Ignition switch is turned to "IGN" power is supplied to Fuse box which splits the power to the following fuses "P&E IGN", "IGN", "INSTR", "LIGHTS", and "ENG CTL" along with direct power to the "Start Relay". Looking at the schematic I put together, which makes it a little easier to follow the path of the wires. From what I can put together, putting the toggle switch between "B" and "A", is the only place you can put it so power is continued to be supplied to everything that needs power.
Or to make my previous drawing the correct path to follow.
Or to make my previous drawing the correct path to follow.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,949
Likes: 150
From: South of Mordor
Nice schematic. Maybe there is something wrong with my bike then because the last time I tried this, I wired it as your schematic shows and the ignition worked but I had no power to the running light and speedo. The only way I could get power to all that requires power was the way I explained it in my earlier posts.
Tourer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 354
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles
Ok, so after do some schematic reading in my service manual, this is what I was able to put together for why the toggle switch can only be used inline with the ignition wires at the neck. At the Neck we have A, B and C connections as the OP mentioned. A is the Ingnition wire that supplies power out of the switch when turned to "IGN" to a multitued of places, B is where that Battery power comes into the switch (constent hot), C is the Accessory powered devices when the switch is turn to ACC. When the switch is turned to ACC it only supplies power to the "Customer Accessory Connection", horn, left and right turn switches and lights, plate light and or tail lamp and position head lamp (HDI only). When the Ignition switch is turned to "IGN" power is supplied to Fuse box which splits the power to the following fuses "P&E IGN", "IGN", "INSTR", "LIGHTS", and "ENG CTL" along with direct power to the "Start Relay". Looking at the schematic I put together, which makes it a little easier to follow the path of the wires. From what I can put together, putting the toggle switch between "B" and "A", is the only place you can put it so power is continued to be supplied to everything that needs power.
Or to make my previous drawing the correct path to follow.
Or to make my previous drawing the correct path to follow.
Could you just splice in to B and togle power on and off to the ignition switch? Then file the nub off the key, so if you want the extra security, you can turn off the ignition switch with the key, and if not just leave the switch in the on position keep your key in your pocket or wherever and use the toggle switch.