Rear Brake
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 10
From: Suffolk, England
I think it depends what you are used to. Compared to the other Harleys I have ridden, the back brake on my Fat Bob is about the same. Compared to any recent Jap, Italian or German bike though, its absolutely awful, dangerously so.
Mine was this kind of near-useless from new. I've had the dealer look at it twice. I've dismantled and reassembled it with a new seal kit. I've tried two non-stock brands of pads. I've adjusted the travel three or four times. Nothing made a speck of difference.
Basically, its just a poor design. And don't even get me started on HD's policy of putting a single disk on front of most of their bikes, meaning that that can be crap too.
Mine was this kind of near-useless from new. I've had the dealer look at it twice. I've dismantled and reassembled it with a new seal kit. I've tried two non-stock brands of pads. I've adjusted the travel three or four times. Nothing made a speck of difference.
Basically, its just a poor design. And don't even get me started on HD's policy of putting a single disk on front of most of their bikes, meaning that that can be crap too.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 280
Likes: 3
Thanks for the reply's...I also have a 1995 FXSTC and the brakes on it are a bit better than on the 2010 Wide Glide...When I get time and some spare cash I will put a braided line on,flush out the system and bleed it again and see how I go...
Cheers...Sparra
Cheers...Sparra
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
A couple of things to check out I know from experience...make sure all of the caliper pistons are working,
Dot 5 can become really saturated with tiny air bubbles that can be a real bitch to bleed out. Try letting it set for a couple of days or even more and bleed it again. I had this problem when I overhauled my front brakes. I tried every trick with no luck. I finally just let it sit for a week and the system bled just like it was supposed to.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 10
From: Suffolk, England
Its not a fault that can be fixed by doing the usual maintenance stuff. Its like this from new.
The only effective fix I have seen is to use an aftermarket caliper. So I suspect the fault is not with the master cylinder or the operating mechanism.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
Foxter, I cannot disagree with your assessment that the entire front system design is not good enough and leads to under braking. A dual system would be a lot safer.
When I replaced my front handlebars, I had to replace the front brake line. . Now, my front brakes seemed to work fine before I started the change over so I decided to just flush the system. But I noticed all kinds of serious crud in the master cylinder and I figured that since I was going there anyway, I would just rebuild the master as well. I cleaned the master, put a kit in it, flushed the entire system with new DOT 5 but I just could not reverse pressure bleed (like we do airplanes) or vacuum bleed like the book calls out because the caliper would not hold a vacuum. I finally pulled apart the caliper and found two of the four pistons were not working and it was filled with crud also. Paid $76 for the HD caliper rebuild kit with pistons at my local dealer but I still could not get that bitch to bleed. I got frustrated and walked away and let it set for a week and when I went back to it, the system vacuum bled just fine the very first try. I researched this issue and found a lot of comments on air saturation in DOT 5 being a problem. I am convinced that was what I was dealing with.
I have pads and the HD rebuild kits for the rear master and caliper (less the pistons) and I plan on doing the rear as soon as there is a rainy weekend...I am a front and rear together braker and the rear brakes are a little soft but the pads are still good so as long as the weekends are sunny and clear, I'm gonna ride.
When I replaced my front handlebars, I had to replace the front brake line. . Now, my front brakes seemed to work fine before I started the change over so I decided to just flush the system. But I noticed all kinds of serious crud in the master cylinder and I figured that since I was going there anyway, I would just rebuild the master as well. I cleaned the master, put a kit in it, flushed the entire system with new DOT 5 but I just could not reverse pressure bleed (like we do airplanes) or vacuum bleed like the book calls out because the caliper would not hold a vacuum. I finally pulled apart the caliper and found two of the four pistons were not working and it was filled with crud also. Paid $76 for the HD caliper rebuild kit with pistons at my local dealer but I still could not get that bitch to bleed. I got frustrated and walked away and let it set for a week and when I went back to it, the system vacuum bled just fine the very first try. I researched this issue and found a lot of comments on air saturation in DOT 5 being a problem. I am convinced that was what I was dealing with.
I have pads and the HD rebuild kits for the rear master and caliper (less the pistons) and I plan on doing the rear as soon as there is a rainy weekend...I am a front and rear together braker and the rear brakes are a little soft but the pads are still good so as long as the weekends are sunny and clear, I'm gonna ride.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 97
From: Northern VA
The rear brakes on my bike work very well. .easy to lock up. For a long time the pedal wasn't working right, was sticky and hard to push. Once that was fixed they're a lot more predictable. The fronts on mine need a little work, some of the pistons are stuck. I have the rebuild kits, pads, etc for when I find time.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,384
Likes: 12
From: Out on Deranged
That's what I meant. Thank You.
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Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 676
Likes: 2
From: Glendale, AZ
The back brake is not your primary, so I wouldnt expect it to be able to do as well as a front. Its like having a built in front biased proportioning valve. Front brake is primary...can stop the bike all on its own. When you need to do quicker stop...supplement with the rear. And you really DONT want it to lock up, which is a good way to put yourself on the pavement.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 7
From: SLC, UT
Hmmm, interesting input. My rear brake works great. In fact, I use it more than my front. I will typically engine brake most of the time then use my rear brake to complete the stop. It has proven to me anyway, to be just as effective at stopping the bike if not better than my front. Maybe thats saying something about my front.... which I also feel works great. Stock setup.
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