right cam for useable power?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 6,849
Likes: 1,389
From: Florida
You are correct. Nothing wrong with the fuelpak IF they have a map for the cam you pick for your engine
planing on going with the se race tuner when i do the cam. that's the primary range not to say that i haven't revved the bike out hotroding it around. im just worried about ending up with either a cam that belongs on a loaded bagger, or the other side of the spectrum with a cam that builds all of its power over 4k where im not frequently riding in.
Dave Mackie 575L cams (with adjustable push rods)
SEPRT
Bassani Road Rage II
30T
I also run a SE Stage 1 AC
Performance is great, a far more useable power band allowing me to enter curves at a higher speed with out over reving the motor while allowing me to power out of the Apex much faster.
Cruising has improved tremendously. All in all the bike is far more rider friendly.
Bob
First off ditch that fuel pak piece of garbage. When I went 106 my old pistons had a thick layer of carbon on top I was in awe. The engine had 8000 miles on it,and the fuel pak had the a/f mix so rich the fuel wasn't all burning,leaving deposits behind.
Believe it or not the stock tune and a/f ratio of 14.7-1 helps contribute to a complete burn,and lessens deposits.
My bike now has 32000 on it,used a pc-v for tuning and had it dyno tuned. I changed my plugs last week and used my Milwaukee cavity inspector and my piston tops are still clean,I couldn't see ant deposits whatsoever.
Anyways to answer you question I've got wood tw6-6 cams in mine. I've got 100ft/lbs tq at 2000rpm,and it pulls the wheel if I'm really twisting in 1st and second. Bike has a 6500rpm rev limit now and the dyno sheet shows that the hp line doesn't drop,it just keeps climbing.
Look into woods or Andrews cams.
And your fuel pak is not capable to tune for cams. You need to adjust timing with new cams and the fuel pak isn't capable,which could be why you are never happy with the end result thus far.
Cams need a dyno tune to get the most out of them. So you need a real tuner,not a fuel enricher. A fuel pak is the same thing as changing jet sizes.
V&H should have stuck to just building pipes,their tuning equipment is garbage. I gave my old fuel pak away because I was embarrassed to take money for it. JUNK
Believe it or not the stock tune and a/f ratio of 14.7-1 helps contribute to a complete burn,and lessens deposits.
My bike now has 32000 on it,used a pc-v for tuning and had it dyno tuned. I changed my plugs last week and used my Milwaukee cavity inspector and my piston tops are still clean,I couldn't see ant deposits whatsoever.
Anyways to answer you question I've got wood tw6-6 cams in mine. I've got 100ft/lbs tq at 2000rpm,and it pulls the wheel if I'm really twisting in 1st and second. Bike has a 6500rpm rev limit now and the dyno sheet shows that the hp line doesn't drop,it just keeps climbing.
Look into woods or Andrews cams.
And your fuel pak is not capable to tune for cams. You need to adjust timing with new cams and the fuel pak isn't capable,which could be why you are never happy with the end result thus far.
Cams need a dyno tune to get the most out of them. So you need a real tuner,not a fuel enricher. A fuel pak is the same thing as changing jet sizes.
V&H should have stuck to just building pipes,their tuning equipment is garbage. I gave my old fuel pak away because I was embarrassed to take money for it. JUNK
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 10
From: Suffolk, England
In that case you can save yourself a lot of bother and go with some SE cams.
The problem I have always found with cams is getting a good tune to match. Not only do you have to get the fuel right but its even more important to sort out the timing to match the cams, something which is sadly often overlooked and this ends up leaving HP on the garage floor.
With your planned SEPST you will be able to load a canned map to match your stage-1 bits plus the cams. You will then be 95% of the way there. You could just do a bit of Smart tuning if you want to bed them in even more. No real need to mess around with a dyno tune unless you want it really tight.
Plus, there is absolutely nothing wrong with SE cams. There's a good range that's easy to understand and they all work really well. Some people think that fitting another brand is the way to go just because they are non-Harley, well can't say I agree.
Pick some from this chart that gets you best power in the range you want it. From what you said I'd think 204s would do you nicely. Makes the bike sound real nice too.
The problem I have always found with cams is getting a good tune to match. Not only do you have to get the fuel right but its even more important to sort out the timing to match the cams, something which is sadly often overlooked and this ends up leaving HP on the garage floor.
With your planned SEPST you will be able to load a canned map to match your stage-1 bits plus the cams. You will then be 95% of the way there. You could just do a bit of Smart tuning if you want to bed them in even more. No real need to mess around with a dyno tune unless you want it really tight.
Plus, there is absolutely nothing wrong with SE cams. There's a good range that's easy to understand and they all work really well. Some people think that fitting another brand is the way to go just because they are non-Harley, well can't say I agree.
Pick some from this chart that gets you best power in the range you want it. From what you said I'd think 204s would do you nicely. Makes the bike sound real nice too.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
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