A strange problem, need the forums collective knowledge..
Tried new spark plugs??
Last year, returning from my 4 days trip into the Black Forest, my Dyna was running real bad.
Last year, returning from my 4 days trip into the Black Forest, my Dyna was running real bad.
...so I started to think I had to cancel joining the 2012 HDF Euro M&G ride.
What has happened:
Bike was serviced three weeks ago, just before I left for a 4-days tour into the German Black Forest.
From that time, the bike started running real bad:
misfiring at a steady throttle position, popping at decel, sneezing from A/C and stalling at idle...
No loss of power when accelerating though and problems of misfiring disappeared when giving it bit of extra throttle.
As I want the bike run smooth when I go down there again next weekend for the 2012 HDF Euro M&G, I started checking out the forum, Clymer & H-D RM for possible cause(s).
Found lots of options: from contaminated fuel to malfunctioning of cranck position sensor and lots more in between...
Clymer RM gives 17 (!) possible causes:
Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs
Damaged spark plug cables
Incorrect ignition timing
Defective ignition components
An obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve
Obstructed fuel filter
Clogged carburetor jets
Loose battery connection
Wiring or connector damage
Water or other contaminants in fuel
Weak or damaged valve springs
Incorrect camshaft/valve timing
A damaged valve(s)
Dirty electrical connections
Intake manifold or carburetor air leak
A plugged carburetor vent hoe
Plugged fuel tank vent system
First thoughts: intake leak....
Started running carb cleaner in my tank: no results.
Hmm what next?
Talked to my Indy who -like many posts in here- diagnosed possible worn out and leaking intake & carb seals.
Decided to have them replaced yesterday (one of the intake seals was worn out indeed).
Picked up the bike in the late afternoon and rode home, taking a detour to check out the results.
Unfortunately nothing had changed!
Went back to my Indy today and told him nothing had changed.
Asked him if the carb had to be cleaned. "No need to", he said, "did that yesterday". "Let's try an easy fix and change the (four weeks old) plugs".
So he did, I took out the bike for a test ride and problems are gone!
He even didn't charge me for the new plugs!
The moral of this story:
Although you think that new and "just out of the box" spark plugs will function well for a long time, they can leave you within a week!
Black Forest: HERE I COME!
What has happened:
Bike was serviced three weeks ago, just before I left for a 4-days tour into the German Black Forest.
From that time, the bike started running real bad:
misfiring at a steady throttle position, popping at decel, sneezing from A/C and stalling at idle...
No loss of power when accelerating though and problems of misfiring disappeared when giving it bit of extra throttle.
As I want the bike run smooth when I go down there again next weekend for the 2012 HDF Euro M&G, I started checking out the forum, Clymer & H-D RM for possible cause(s).
Found lots of options: from contaminated fuel to malfunctioning of cranck position sensor and lots more in between...
Clymer RM gives 17 (!) possible causes:
Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs
Damaged spark plug cables
Incorrect ignition timing
Defective ignition components
An obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve
Obstructed fuel filter
Clogged carburetor jets
Loose battery connection
Wiring or connector damage
Water or other contaminants in fuel
Weak or damaged valve springs
Incorrect camshaft/valve timing
A damaged valve(s)
Dirty electrical connections
Intake manifold or carburetor air leak
A plugged carburetor vent hoe
Plugged fuel tank vent system
First thoughts: intake leak....
Started running carb cleaner in my tank: no results.
Hmm what next?
Talked to my Indy who -like many posts in here- diagnosed possible worn out and leaking intake & carb seals.
Decided to have them replaced yesterday (one of the intake seals was worn out indeed).
Picked up the bike in the late afternoon and rode home, taking a detour to check out the results.
Unfortunately nothing had changed!
Went back to my Indy today and told him nothing had changed.
Asked him if the carb had to be cleaned. "No need to", he said, "did that yesterday". "Let's try an easy fix and change the (four weeks old) plugs".
So he did, I took out the bike for a test ride and problems are gone!
He even didn't charge me for the new plugs!
The moral of this story:
Although you think that new and "just out of the box" spark plugs will function well for a long time, they can leave you within a week!
Black Forest: HERE I COME!
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,864
Likes: 126
From: Aussie lost in Switzerland
Thanks Rene, had 3 set of plugs in it so far, no difference.
Going to try the injector cleaner and check the ECM connector tomorrow, see if that helps.
Going to try the injector cleaner and check the ECM connector tomorrow, see if that helps.
Thread Starter
|
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,864
Likes: 126
From: Aussie lost in Switzerland
Temp sensor, hadn't thought of that. Is there any way you can trick the sensors into permanently off or bypass it?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
It should throw a code though.
Stuff that makes things run rough without throwing codes is often a situtation where the component is either not part of the fault code system or where a component is operating correctly from the detection point of view but not mechanically (such as a broken or clogged injector).
Swapping injectors might work whereas cleaning won't.
Certain wiring faults won't throw codes.
I would also look inside the tank and check that all the fuel pick up bits are connected properly.
If all else fails I would make sure it was fully insured and then make it dissapear because sometimes you get vehicles that are essentailly unfixable, this is especially true when they have been like it since new.
I know of a few Landrovers that had to be taken out and shot by the manufacturer and there is a 2005 Dyna at an Indy near me that only runs properly when its raining.....
But I am sure it will get fixed eventually.
The other thing I want to say is that you can get too deep into a job like this.....a fresh pair of eyes might find something ****-achingly obvious....like my old Volvo 760 .......even Volvo couldn't fix the intermittent misfire.....then the dude repairing the exhaust found the alternator output wire was fried and at certain speeds would touch on the exhaust....he fixed it for 2 bucks.
Another thing you can check....my son's BMW F650 did pretty much what yours is doing and it turned out that the voltage regulator was shot and when the charging voltage hit 19V it caused a misfire as it confused the ECU.....anything over 15.25V should be investigated.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10,968
Likes: 54
Does it have anything to do with fuel level? last time I had this happen it was the pin hole in the fuel pump line in teh tank. I had it happen two different times. When the gas got below a certain level it would run rough. Probably not your issue but it is something to check for. When the gas gets low enough you can hear the gas shooting out of the line if you take the fuel cap off and listen.
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
I had a 98' DWG that did something similar to that from day one....turned out to be the 'Brain' or ECM, once it was swapped out it never did it again. Only did it in higher RPM ranges for extended periods so whenever the dealership would run it on a Dyno they never ran it in high RPMs long enough to get it to act up....figured it out myself by trial and error.....good times. I recommend you look there.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
From: Meridian, Idaho
+1...Bad grounds can cause a myriad of freaky problems! Good place to start!