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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bhaxton
Just another thought.
Thanks for the info man.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 10:55 AM
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Just a little update for anyone who cares. The P0051 code is for "low current on the rear O2 heating element". I know that this is only an emissions control issue. But the dash light drives me crazy. Found the sensor make and wiring diagram on the net today. So I ran a continuity meter across the element to varify. The element read "open". So I will be on my way to HD this evening to get a replacement. Gonna try and get them to replace the sensor under warranty.

This is a Delphi 2 ( 4 wire ) sensor.
Black - Signal
Gray - Ground
Purple - Element
White - Element.

Wish me luck on getting the part replaced for free?
 

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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by FXDWG12
Just a little update for anyone who cares. The P0051 code is for "low current on the rear O2 heating element". I know that this is only an emissions control issue. But the dash light drives me crazy. Found the sensor make and wiring diagram on the net today. So I ran a continuity meter across the element to varify. The element read "open". So I will be on my way to HD this evening to get a replacement. Gonna try and get them to replace the sensor under warranty.

This is a Delhhi 2 ( 4 wire ) sensor.
Black - Signal
Gray - Ground
Purple - Element
White - Element.

Wish me luck on getting the part replaced for free?
Thanks for the update...I always keep up with these type threads in case I have an issue in the future.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 11:07 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Nosaints1
Thanks for the update...I always keep up with these type threads in case I have an issue in the future.
Happy to help brother.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by FXDWG12
Just a little update for anyone who cares. The P0051 code is for "low current on the rear O2 heating element". I know that this is only an emissions control issue. But the dash light drives me crazy. Found the sensor make and wiring diagram on the net today. So I ran a continuity meter across the element to varify. The element read "open". So I will be on my way to HD this evening to get a replacement. Gonna try and get them to replace the sensor under warranty.

This is a Delphi 2 ( 4 wire ) sensor.
Black - Signal
Gray - Ground
Purple - Element
White - Element.

Wish me luck on getting the part replaced for free?
you may want too double check your check. On O2 sensor isn't a resistive device. It is a galvanic battery. It creates a small voltage that is read by the ECM. I won't go into the specifics about how it works.

Something you might try is hooking a volt meter to the PPl and WHT while scoot is running. It'll need to run a couple of minutes to give the sensor a chance to get hot. As it warms up you should see the voltage begin to come up. You should read somewhere around 400mV and it will change a little when you blip the throttle.

I'm not familiar with a low current fault on an O2 sensor. All of them I've been around go to a 10M ohm, voltage loaded, input. You don't flow much current past that with 400mV.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bhaxton
you may want too double check your check. On O2 sensor isn't a resistive device. It is a galvanic battery. It creates a small voltage that is read by the ECM. I won't go into the specifics about how it works.

Something you might try is hooking a volt meter to the PPl and WHT while scoot is running. It'll need to run a couple of minutes to give the sensor a chance to get hot. As it warms up you should see the voltage begin to come up. You should read somewhere around 400mV and it will change a little when you blip the throttle.

I'm not familiar with a low current fault on an O2 sensor. All of them I've been around go to a 10M ohm, voltage loaded, input. You don't flow much current past that with 400mV.
Ya thanks man for keeping me in check. The O2 part of the sensor is probably fine. Remember this is a 4 wire sensor. The extra wires are for a heating element. The heating element brings the sensor up to operating temperature quicker so HD can control their exhaust gasses even befor the engine is completely warmed up. Apparently the element burned open. I checked this with a continuity meter. And compared the reading with the front sensor. The rear element read "0" ohms. And the front element read about "70" ohms. So I'm pretty convinced that this is what triggered the dash light. Went to HD and ordered the new sensor. They would not honor the warranty unless they did the work. So my insecurity cost me $65. The really bad part though is the part is back ordered for 10 days. Well at least my bikes is in the garage and not at the dealer.
Thanks again for trying to look after me.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:27 PM
  #17  
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I posted this question in the tuner forum. But I wonder if the tune could have caused this problem. Or just my bad luck.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:32 PM
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Man. My bad. When you said element I read "sensor element", not heating element.

I don't think I ever tried to figure out what part of the sensor was failed. I wasn't buying. Reading the output will tell you if it's failed in less than a minute. I guess I never waited long enough for the exhaust gas to heat it up.

great deal you got it sorted out.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by FXDWG12
I posted this question in the tuner forum. But I wonder if the tune could have caused this problem. Or just my bad luck.
The Bosch pieces that I worked with, the heating element was spec'd out to be good up too 15.2V (as I recall). You might look it up and check your voltage while running. It's been a while.

One other thing you might check. we used to run them just outside of the head for cylinder tuning (ours are close too). If your EGT gets to 1400 deg. f you are at risk of burning it up. If you are running a little lean and ride it the way I do, this is a possibility.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:38 PM
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It's my understanding that these things don't work accurately until they reach 600*.
 
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