Shocks advice needed
A few months ago I installed some Progressive 412s on my FXDWG and pretty much they stink. Installed the OEM ones back on this past Friday and was a better ride. I am looking for some advice on which shocks would be the cats meow for 2 up riding. The GF and I are riding a whole lot more than I expected and now she is planning some 4 day trip for this fall for us. So I figure I better get the bike dialed in for this. Can anyone suggest some good shocks? Thanks in advance for all suggestions. Yes $$$ is a factor, but willing to spend the money for something which is worth the investment.
The basic functions of a shock absorber are:
1. Spring compressive strength and pre-load
2. Compression dampening
3. Rebound dampening
The stock H-D shocks feature a standard spring with only pre-load adjustment. There is no rebound or compression dampening.
The spring rate is the "strength" of the spring, how easily it compresses. A pre-load adjuster is an adjuster, such as the stock H-D adjuster, that can "tighten-up" or "loosen-up" the spring. It does this by compressing or relaxing the spring in the shock.
If the pre-load is increased and the spring tightened, the shock will tend to stay extended better and provide a higher ride height with less "sag" and thus taking advantage of the full stroke of the shock while resisting "bottoming out."
In many cases the increased pre-load will make the shock "harder" and "tighter." However, if a shock is set with too little pre-load and it sags down excessively on the totally travel, it will tend to bottom out too easily and seem more harsh than a shock set with greater pre-load.
Setting proper pre-load normally requires setting your "sag." Websearch this and you'll read more. Basically, you measure the bike's shock extension - unloaded with wheel off ground, unloaded with wheel on ground and loaded with rider and wheel on ground.
You don't want the shock to squat too much and use up all its travel with you just sitting on the bike. You calculate it based on shock travel. No more than an inch or so of sag is what I shoot for.
The other major features of a shock that determine ride quality are compression and rebound dampening. Inside the shock there is fluid that provides resistance to the shock compressing and rebounding from its compression.
Good shocks have adjusters for one or both of these. The dampening adjusters work with the spring rates. Higher compression dampening provides a "harder" shock and prevents it from bottoming out too easily. Less compression dampening eases it up and makes a more supple ride.
Higher rebound dampening keeps the rear end settled down and stable, especially in curves etc. It prevent a pogo effect. Too high a rebound, however, can cause the shock to "pack down" on multiple bumps or washboard roads. The shock doesn't have time to rebound before absorbing the next shock and you end up working it at the bottom of the shock travel with poor absorption and a rough ride.
Too little rebound will cause the bike to bounce too much and create an unstable rear end during sporty riding. It can also cause rough rides on rough roads as the shock too easily snaps back and hits the extension stops.
Lol, sounds complicated? Takes a little time to get it right but it's not that difficult.
Back to the stock shocks. All you can do is adjust the spring pre-load so you don't have much control.
If you want a better ride, look at aftermarket shocks. I like the Ohlins 159 but anything is better than the stock. The 159 has spring pre-load and rebound but no compression dampening. It's a good practical shock that wont break your bank account. Most people don't need super-expensive shocks with remote pre-load adjusters and all the dampening *****.
Also, get shocks with greater length. About 13 inches is good on a Dyna. This gives greater shock travel normally and better ground clearance.
If you want the slammed, low look your ride quality will suffer.
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For two-up riding, try to get a set of springs that will give you the desired ride height with minimum spring pre-load cranked in. Then, when you load up with a passenger or gear, you will have all your available pre-load adjustment there for the extra weight. A good suspension shop will select the proper spring for your needs. I've worked with Jerry and Gary at Ohlins North America and they have some good data on spring rates from my experiments with the Dyna.
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Last edited by leafman60; Jul 7, 2013 at 03:28 PM.
Seems to me that the saying "You get what you pay for", applies pretty well with rear shocks. Some day....
I used the 12.6 as well and they just seemed super stiff. Maybe I just received a bad set, I am going to contact Progressive today and talk with them.
Thanks to all for the info...@ leafman60....great info to know, gives me a good understanding. Will keep you all posted on what i find.
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