DIY stage 1 questions
As to the benefit of running open loop all the time, no more 'hunting', ie, the ECM is not trying to make the bike achieve that perfect Stoic combustion scenario at cruising RPMs anymore, so no more what feels like lean surging when just putting around. By the way, I've read and talked to few guys who have their own shops and do tuning, and they have mentioned sometimes having to take part of the map out of closed loop to get the bike to run strong at certain low RPMs;albeit, they typically try to keep cruising RPMs in closed loop to preserve the MPGs- of course this takes some fine tweaking of cells in the map, costs time/money.
And finally, per your comments regarding fuel quality and closed loop operation, while you are right about variations in fuel quality, what about the blow-by scenario,eh? You can run the exact same fuel day in and day out, but the blow-by will differ, depending on many factors, some days just hot air entering your intake tract, some days a big booger of oil, some days a lot of acidic water- you don't think this affects the combustion process? Route the blow-by out of the intake and collect it in a catch can, you will be amazed/horrified at what is being shoved into the combustion chambers. Just like closed loop operation, this was done not to make your machine run better or last longer, but to satisfy EPA. I know by seat of the pants that my bike runs much better consistently with the blow-by re-routed, as I have switched back and forth from stock breather set-up to re-route twice now. Not very technical, so probably should not be mentioned on the internet, at least not on this forum, apparently.
(PS, the attachment is from a friend who tunes, worksheet from tuning session on a 2009 Superglide. All the sections marked off with pen are closed loop, the other cells are open loop- don't see anything like a 15 to 1 AFR under open loop operation there, do you?)
*Walks away in disgust at the level of some people's ignorance*
I'm starting to think you are posting this stuff just to wind me up. But I'll give you the benefit of the doubt just once more...
That's exactly what it is. A device that you plug into the ECU of your bike to tune it. Either the dealer can do that or you can yourself if you purchase the optional software and leads. I am not a lone voice expressing some mad opinion; that is exactly what everyone else thinks it is - except, apparently, you.
Of course, you don't have to live with closed loop running at stoic. If you have a tuner (or some Xieds) you change this. Mine is set to have an AFR of 14.2:1 in closed loop with gasoline. So I still save fuel when cruising, though slightly less, and I don't have any surging or other issues and I didn't have to give up the advantages of O2 sensors and closed loop to achieve this.
Lets say you would like a rich tune to make best power at a particular spot on the map. You adjust the tune to 0.89 lamba (AFR of 13.1:1 if running straight gasoline) at that spot and anywhere else you need the extra power. You do this with a tank of straight gasoline.
Then you start to find that only E10 is available, as is often the case in the US now. If you haven't broken your bike by disabling the O2 sensors or closed loop then, over a little time, the bike will adjust at this spot on the map to 0.89 lamba again (AFR of 12.6:1 for E10). However, if you have broken your bike, then it will continue to maintain an AFR of 13.1:1, which is about 4% or so leaner than you wanted.
That's where the lean value of 15+:1 that I mentioned before comes from. Without closed loop, if you had tuned for gasoline and used E10 instead then the bike will run about 4% leaner. Which is exactly what is happening with your bike: the tune will be all over the place depending on what fuel you use.
Got it yet?
Go troll elsewhere, this is a forum for serious discussion.
And in regards to your comment about tuning your bike with a laptop and a flash tuner, minus the Dyno time, sure, lot's of folks do it. But without a way to sample the exhaust gasses, you are just guessing at actual AFR and adjusting the VE tables by the seat of your pants. Glad to hear you are smart enough to re-route the Blow-by, although why my mentioning of such makes you think it was some novel idea leaves me wondering about your state of mind. I started reading about that 2 years ago on another forum, just took me a while to get around to it. Say, you didn't invent the idea, did ya?
BTW, are you a moderator on this forum? If not, you should petition one to ban me for my trollism,eh.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Of course you don't have access to any tables, including EGR, so your tune is completely unknown.
You've disabled your O2 sensors and so haven't a clue what the VEs, AFRs or anything are.
Look, I get that you have done a bit of reading and picked up a few buzz words. But I really don't think you have a full grasp of the products or the technology. I'm not saying I do either but its a bit more than you. You aren't making yourself look very good here because you are getting so much stuff wrong. I suggest doing a little more research and letting this discussion alone for now. I definitely am now because its sucking up too much time.
3illy, I got a 2010 fxdwg a yr ago, first harley, jap bike riders call them farm bikes, they just a engine man, lot of hysteria around about them and shops/dealers love that
Don't read too much into all the hype about stage 1, I put slip ons on, then xieds than AC kit, bike runs well as, done a heap of riding and hasn't missed a beat
Thinking of putting a pro-pipe onto it soon, local dyno guy wasn't interested in doing dyno run on it because I don't have tuner so he cant up sell tune time etc, I just wanted to check AFR, hp and tq
Thanks
Mirrmu


