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Since I all ready have inner primary off. How should the ipb look? The race didnt look like it had walked. And not tore up. The bearing appear ok, but they seem to be loose and move around some. Is that normal or should they be fairly tight. Thanks
Since I all ready have inner primary off. How should the ipb look? The race didnt look like it had walked. And not tore up. The bearing appear ok, but they seem to be loose and move around some. Is that normal or should they be fairly tight. Thanks
If it was me, I'd probably replace it as long as I had it apart that far, given the 2006 issues.
Mine had obvious visual deterioration, but a lot of deterioration can happen before anything is available visually to the naked eye, like "work hardening" and embrittlement of the metal.
Last edited by Warp Factor; Aug 13, 2013 at 04:20 PM.
I agree with Warp if it was me. Once you remove the seal and snap ring it comes out fairly easily. You really need to replace the inner race unless you mic it carefully with an out side micrometer that measures in 0.0001. No dial caliper here. You need to make sure it is not worn and ROUND. You can pick up the true size in an area not touched by bearing. If you replace inner race, it can be grooved and cracked off. But you need the tool to press it on. Do not hammer it on.
Take the connector apart. The wires pull through very easy. Use some RTV to seal it up to keep your primary oil in. Did the inner primary cover AND bearing along with a new stator, My left me and my Wife stranded in the middle of BFT. Make sure you use a new primary gasket.
New stator & 1 part rotor are installed. Guess I will take the advice to go ahead and change IPB. I think its ok but ordered one from baker this morning after emailing them. They told me hd changed the shaft size , mid 07 model year. I hope they ship it quickly, I was going to hold off on ipb till this winter, i'm in Ohio so not much riding weather left, but since it is apart and the bearing is close to the milage the last one went out, plus more gaskets, primary bolts etc. guess a few more days may be worth it in the long run.
Ripsaw, from your posts in various inner primary bearing threads, you seem to know a lot about bearings, transmissions etc.
Do you have any conclusions or guesses so far about the cause of the 2006 issue, and also about what seems to be a high failure rate overall on various years?
Some people have mentioned that the ratcheting tensioner might be a contributor, but it looks a little wimpy to apply much force, compared to the loads from the engine. And people have reached in with the derby cover off and felt some slack, but didn't mention if that was with the engine warm or cold. If the tensioner took up slack when things are cold, maybe there's enough expansion in the aluminum engine and transmission cases to make it overly tight when things heat up?
Transmission output shaft bearings seem to hold up OK, and they're under a lot more load, so what's up with the inner primary bearing?
Ripsaw, from your posts in various inner primary bearing threads, you seem to know a lot about bearings, transmissions etc.
Do you have any conclusions or guesses so far about the cause of the 2006 issue, and also about what seems to be a high failure rate overall on various years?
Some people have mentioned that the ratcheting tensioner might be a contributor, but it looks a little wimpy to apply much force, compared to the loads from the engine. And people have reached in with the derby cover off and felt some slack, but didn't mention if that was with the engine warm or cold. If the tensioner took up slack when things are cold, maybe there's enough expansion in the aluminum engine and transmission cases to make it overly tight when things heat up?
Transmission output shaft bearings seem to hold up OK, and they're under a lot more load, so what's up with the inner primary bearing?
Just my opinion..not really from knowing a lot... Few years Harley left the dowels out of the inner primary, probably to alignment quality control.. Harley still does not dowel oil pump due to crank run out and lack of quality control. I personally do not believe too tight of drive belt and even the auto tensioner since most people have not a clue to how this works. Especially the two lower coil springs. Even when chain appears too tight, the chain is actually being tensioned by these two springs and if you push hard, the chain will move 3/8" when hot. I personally think most of it was a big batch of bad bearings not being hardened deep enough and the shallow hard surface breaks off. The transmission output shaft bearing is huge. That double row needle bearings on the input shaft has been a sore point for the cruisers when the 6 speed came out. But again all just my opinion. From what Shep described , there probably was nothing wrong with his..When I was in mine for other reasons, I could have described mine the same way, and it had 35K on it I think.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Aug 14, 2013 at 02:41 PM.
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