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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Got a question. I think I know the answer, but I want to hear from someone here. I've got a 2000 Super Glide. At around 30 to 40 mph, the carb coughs. If I stay steady at the speed where it starts, it just keeps on coughing. But I can throttle on through and its fine, once it gets past those speeds. Seems like a range of about ten to fifteen mph where its prone to do it. A friend of mine, who rode a honda, said it was where the carb is switching from "low speed" jets to "high speed" jets? Now, I don't have a clue about jets, so if thats what it is, I will have to bring it to a shop. While I don't know if there is a such thing as low and high speed jets, I got a feeling its a jet issue. Maybe some cleaning, adjusting, or replacing. The bike is under 10k miles and does have drag pipes (I've been told you need to adjust the jets with aftermarket pipes). I have been adding Seafoam to each tank, but it hasn't changed anything.
Anyway, any advice is appreciated.
Mine has a cough also but it is very seldom and random. May ride for hours and never hear it or go just a few miles and it will cough once or twice. Some say I might just adjust air/fuel mix a small amount. Mine is so slight and far between, I haven't even bother with it. Sorry, not much help.
mine would cough when I blipped the throttle at low speeds like coming to a stop or if I blipped the throttle when taking off, got most of it taken care of with a 1 size larger pilot jet, and / or adjusting the fuel/air screw out another 1/8 turn
What we need to know is if you have a high flow air cleaner, drag pipes as in 1 3/4 pipes with no baffles could be part of the issue, these are really meant for full throttle operation and rob power in the low and mid range, but they do sound great
mine would cough when I blipped the throttle at low speeds like coming to a stop or if I blipped the throttle when taking off, got most of it taken care of with a 1 size larger pilot jet, and / or adjusting the fuel/air screw out another 1/8 turn
What we need to know is if you have a high flow air cleaner, drag pipes as in 1 3/4 pipes with no baffles could be part of the issue, these are really meant for full throttle operation and rob power in the low and mid range, but they do sound great
My pipes are 1 3/4 no baffles, stock air cleaner. do you think adding baffles will help? Thanks.
Coughing out the carb is usually an indication of being too lean. Running drag pipes with no carb adjustments will usually cause this. The bike switching from low speed to high speed jets is not the case. Wether you need to rejet just depends. In my experience with running aftermarket pipes I have been able to make the adjustments on the carb and not have to reject for aftermarket pipes on my scoots but all pipes are different as are all bikes. I would first start with adjusting your air/fuel mixture screw. Its located on the underside of the carb back towards the rear cylinder. It is in a recessed little hole. I usually start by turning the screw inward and counting how many turns in. Genrally gonna be 1 and a quarter or something. So now turn the screw counterclockwise/ outward going back to your starting point. Then start by making 1/4 turn adjustments going counterclockwise, thus richening the ratio. Ride it at all speeds after each adjustment noting if it made it better or worse ect. You should be able to tune this carb fart out, but if you find you are having to turn it more than 3 turns out it most likely will be a good idea to go ahead and think about re jetting. I run after market pipes on my 99 fxdx and was able to make adjustments needed without rejetting, but a quick side note and just my humble opinion. Drag pipes are tuff to tune and get the bike to run ****. I love the sound of open drags but have always felt like I could just never get the bike quite right.
To answer the question on adding baffles yeah I think its a good idea. A little bit of backpressure is a good thing. Will help a ton when tuning that carb.
Coughing out the carb is usually an indication of being too lean. Running drag pipes with no carb adjustments will usually cause this. The bike switching from low speed to high speed jets is not the case. Wether you need to rejet just depends. In my experience with running aftermarket pipes I have been able to make the adjustments on the carb and not have to reject for aftermarket pipes on my scoots but all pipes are different as are all bikes. I would first start with adjusting your air/fuel mixture screw. Its located on the underside of the carb back towards the rear cylinder. It is in a recessed little hole. I usually start by turning the screw inward and counting how many turns in. Genrally gonna be 1 and a quarter or something. So now turn the screw counterclockwise/ outward going back to your starting point. Then start by making 1/4 turn adjustments going counterclockwise, thus richening the ratio. Ride it at all speeds after each adjustment noting if it made it better or worse ect. You should be able to tune this carb fart out, but if you find you are having to turn it more than 3 turns out it most likely will be a good idea to go ahead and think about re jetting. I run after market pipes on my 99 fxdx and was able to make adjustments needed without rejetting, but a quick side note and just my humble opinion. Drag pipes are tuff to tune and get the bike to run ****. I love the sound of open drags but have always felt like I could just never get the bike quite right.
great stuff here. I will give that a shot this weekend. I do still have the stock pipes I could always go back to.
thanks!
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