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Bar change question

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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 01:31 PM
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Default Bar change question

Quick question.

I tugged on the wires a bit but didn't want to pull too hard. Do I need to remove the rubber boot from the frame-hole? If so, will it just pop out?

See the boot in the pic.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 01:48 PM
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It comes right out but going back in is pain in the ***. Just take it out and take time putting it back in
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:09 PM
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The rubber bung comes off with some persuasion, I wouldn't call it 'popping off' exactly. You've removed the plastic cover under the frame neck already? Pretty easy to reach with your tank lift installed. Anyway that's where the connectors sit that you need to unplug before the wires will pull back through that hole you see them coming out of. Ignore me if you've done this already.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:10 PM
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Taking the boot out really opens it up so you can see what's going on. After you take it out, lay it out so you can put it back in the same way. when re-installing, put the solid part of the boot in first and the split part in last and it will be pretty easy.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:18 PM
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This video helped me when changing mine, to me it was the most frustrating part of the job though this guy (Mud?) makes it look easy.

 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:21 PM
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Thanks guys. That's what I figured, but didn't want to screw it up.

Hero, I don't see a plastic cover unless you are describing the same boot/grommet thing on each side of the hole.

Anyway, I'm glad I didn't disconnect anything. I need to go work on an airplane. This is now a weekend project.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by drew1879@gmail.com
It comes right out but going back in is pain in the ***. Just take it out and take time putting it back in
+1 I always manage to leave some skin and torn nail beds behind during this step...lol
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SLV
Thanks guys. That's what I figured, but didn't want to screw it up.

Hero, I don't see a plastic cover unless you are describing the same boot/grommet thing on each side of the hole.

Anyway, I'm glad I didn't disconnect anything. I need to go work on an airplane. This is now a weekend project.

The plastic cover sits under the neck, just below and back from the grommets in your pic, I only removed the grommets though and the plugs pulled straight out.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:38 PM
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you can do that bar swap in a hour, like bushrangr said pull that plastic cover off its under the frame neck... above the front rocker box, you have to squeeze it together like a pill bottle sort of, sometimes you need to push the connectors up from the bottom side of the neck so your not pulling on them hella hard. you shouldn't need to take apart the connectors on 12 and up dynas. you should be able to easily pull the wires threw the bars with the connectors on.

now if your changing cables also it might take 3-4 hours, if the wire holes in the center of the MX bars from forbidden are not big enough to get the connectors threw i would bore them out with a dremal VS. pulling the connector pins out.

post some pics when done
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 02:48 PM
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[EDIT - yeah, what brandon95354 said...I type too slow]

The 2013s have smaller connectors. You won't need to de-pin anything. They fit through the bars pretty easily for both my 1" and 1 1/4" changes.
 

Last edited by SquidHead; Nov 19, 2013 at 02:51 PM.
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