2006 Wideglide Stator/IPB/inner primary
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Road Master
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2006 Wideglide Stator/IPB/inner primary
I finally started the work. Just to give some background info... my bike is a 2006 Wideglide built 2/06 which makes it 6 months into the production.
It has 7800 miles on it and it hasn't given me a stitch of trouble ever. Its a perfectly running bike. I plan on taking some long trips 2014 and I wanted to address any potential issues the bike might have in regards to the IPB failure and the compensator cup screws backing out and taking out my rotor. One of the trips is to Newfoundland so I can't be stuck 1500 miles from home on an island. Anyway.. it took me about 90 minutes tops to completely take apart the bike. Drained primary, removed primary cover, pulled the clutch and the front gear/primary chain and tensioner all as one unit, 2 starter bolts, 5 inner primary bolts and its all apart. Here are 2 pictures.
My inner primary is NOT doweled. They tranny case is NOT doweled. My compensator cup/rotor is screwed together. None of the screws were loose, the IPB was perfect.
I am getting the compensator cup/rotor screws tack welded, I am replacing the IPB with the Baker and I am replacing the stock chain tensioner with a Hayden.
I want to replace the black inner primary with a chrome one. The inner primary I removed has 2 part numbers on stamped on the back of it... 60681-06 (Paint) and 60757-06 (Chrome). I am having trouble finding the chrome one online. I would prefer not to buy from a dealership because they have such a high mark up. Any suggestions? I assume I can't use one from a 2007 because it would have provisions for the 2 dowels that I don't have. Any help is appreciated. Here are the pics...
It has 7800 miles on it and it hasn't given me a stitch of trouble ever. Its a perfectly running bike. I plan on taking some long trips 2014 and I wanted to address any potential issues the bike might have in regards to the IPB failure and the compensator cup screws backing out and taking out my rotor. One of the trips is to Newfoundland so I can't be stuck 1500 miles from home on an island. Anyway.. it took me about 90 minutes tops to completely take apart the bike. Drained primary, removed primary cover, pulled the clutch and the front gear/primary chain and tensioner all as one unit, 2 starter bolts, 5 inner primary bolts and its all apart. Here are 2 pictures.
My inner primary is NOT doweled. They tranny case is NOT doweled. My compensator cup/rotor is screwed together. None of the screws were loose, the IPB was perfect.
I am getting the compensator cup/rotor screws tack welded, I am replacing the IPB with the Baker and I am replacing the stock chain tensioner with a Hayden.
I want to replace the black inner primary with a chrome one. The inner primary I removed has 2 part numbers on stamped on the back of it... 60681-06 (Paint) and 60757-06 (Chrome). I am having trouble finding the chrome one online. I would prefer not to buy from a dealership because they have such a high mark up. Any suggestions? I assume I can't use one from a 2007 because it would have provisions for the 2 dowels that I don't have. Any help is appreciated. Here are the pics...
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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Most of the ones I have found online on Ebay state they are for Mid Controls. Obviously.. my Wideglide came with forward controls.
And another thing I almost forgot.. for all of you that are wondering an easy way you can tell if you have the screwed together compensator cup/rotor......
all you have to do is remove the primary cover. You can see the bottoms of the screws when you look at the front side of the compensator cup once you remove the primary cover. I would guess you could do it without even removing the primary cover if you had one of those Harbor Freight inspection scopes. You would just need to remove the primary inspection cover and poke it in to see.
And another thing I almost forgot.. for all of you that are wondering an easy way you can tell if you have the screwed together compensator cup/rotor......
all you have to do is remove the primary cover. You can see the bottoms of the screws when you look at the front side of the compensator cup once you remove the primary cover. I would guess you could do it without even removing the primary cover if you had one of those Harbor Freight inspection scopes. You would just need to remove the primary inspection cover and poke it in to see.
Last edited by jgcable; Dec 2, 2013 at 10:21 AM.
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Road Master
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Bike is done. New chrome inner primary, Baker bearing, rotor/compensator cup bolts welded, Hayden M6-BT-07 Primary chain tensioner, all Genuine James gaskets. Put it back together... 45oz of 20-50 Mobil 1 V-Twin full synth dumped in, hit the button and it runs perfect.
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From: West Palm Beach, Florida
Very cool. My 2006 Street Bob that I used to own had the stator/rotor blow up at about 15,000 miles. Screws backed out and caused all kinds of damage. Good thing you got that taken care of along with the IPB.
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Road Master
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After being deep into the bike I can absolutely see where the problems or potential problems are. The biggest being the lack of the 2 locating dowels in the transmission case. Without them.. there is at least an 1/4" of play in the inner primary housing before you tighten up the 5 sealing bolts. Even with them fairly snug you can still move the inner primary housing an 1/8" up and 1/8" down. This is absolutely the culprit when it comes to inner primary bearing failures. You CAN put it on straight but I would bet a lot of guys don't realize there is play in it and they just torque it down. That's a problem waiting to happen. Cut off the race with a dremel tool and install a Baker sealed bearing and put the inner primary on as straight as you can by eye and feel and you should be good to go.
The 8 compensator cup/rotor bolts is a just plain stupid design. Mine were all tight as could be but there are many many cases of them coming loose and tearing up your stator leaving you stuck on the road. Just get the little 8 bolts tack welded and that solves that problem or potential problem. I replaced the stock automatic ratcheting Harley Primary Chain Tensioner with a Hayden M6 BT07 for one reason. I have several friends with 07 Big Twins and a few of them have had Transmission failures at around 35K. They ride their bikes HARD. The problem with the stock tensioner is under high RPM shifting the chain moves around a lot and the ratcheting tensioner ratchets up and can't ratchet back down. This puts too much stress on transmission input shaft which screws up the bearings eventually. The Hayden solves that problem. The Screaming Eagle version solves it too because its not automatic. You need to set it correctly and it stays like that until you adjust it again.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Port Coquitlam B.C.
[QUOTE=jgcable; 45oz of 20-50 Mobil 1 V-Twin full synth dumped in, hit the button and it runs perfect.[/QUOTE]
45oz, are you sure? My 06 takes 32oz in the primary and the same in the tranny. I'd double check that.
45oz, are you sure? My 06 takes 32oz in the primary and the same in the tranny. I'd double check that.
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Road Master
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32 in the tranny. 45 in the primary when a new inner primary is installed. I called baker to verify. 38 oz when doing a fluid change only.
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After being deep into the bike I can absolutely see where the problems or potential problems are. The biggest being the lack of the 2 locating dowels in the transmission case. Without them.. there is at least an 1/4" of play in the inner primary housing before you tighten up the 5 sealing bolts. Even with them fairly snug you can still move the inner primary housing an 1/8" up and 1/8" down. This is absolutely the culprit when it comes to inner primary bearing failures. You CAN put it on straight but I would bet a lot of guys don't realize there is play in it and they just torque it down. That's a problem waiting to happen. Cut off the race with a dremel tool and install a Baker sealed bearing and put the inner primary on as straight as you can by eye and feel and you should be good to go.
The 8 compensator cup/rotor bolts is a just plain stupid design. Mine were all tight as could be but there are many many cases of them coming loose and tearing up your stator leaving you stuck on the road. Just get the little 8 bolts tack welded and that solves that problem or potential problem. I replaced the stock automatic ratcheting Harley Primary Chain Tensioner with a Hayden M6 BT07 for one reason. I have several friends with 07 Big Twins and a few of them have had Transmission failures at around 35K. They ride their bikes HARD. The problem with the stock tensioner is under high RPM shifting the chain moves around a lot and the ratcheting tensioner ratchets up and can't ratchet back down. This puts too much stress on transmission input shaft which screws up the bearings eventually. The Hayden solves that problem. The Screaming Eagle version solves it too because its not automatic. You need to set it correctly and it stays like that until you adjust it again.
The 8 compensator cup/rotor bolts is a just plain stupid design. Mine were all tight as could be but there are many many cases of them coming loose and tearing up your stator leaving you stuck on the road. Just get the little 8 bolts tack welded and that solves that problem or potential problem. I replaced the stock automatic ratcheting Harley Primary Chain Tensioner with a Hayden M6 BT07 for one reason. I have several friends with 07 Big Twins and a few of them have had Transmission failures at around 35K. They ride their bikes HARD. The problem with the stock tensioner is under high RPM shifting the chain moves around a lot and the ratcheting tensioner ratchets up and can't ratchet back down. This puts too much stress on transmission input shaft which screws up the bearings eventually. The Hayden solves that problem. The Screaming Eagle version solves it too because its not automatic. You need to set it correctly and it stays like that until you adjust it again.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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An even easier way is to just install the Baker sealed bearing. Its narrower than the stock open bearing. Because of this.. even if the inner primary was put on without checking it, it still wouldn't bind up on the tranny input shaft.
I complained about these issues for an entire season. I called Harley. I called the dealer. I registered my complaint. If I had known how easy it was to fix I would have just fixed everything instead of complaining for an entire season.