Wideglide Lower Fork Swap out
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 848
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Wideglide Lower Fork Swap out
I want to swap out the aluminum lower forks on my 06 Wide glide with chrome lowers.
I have the Clymer manual and the Harley Service manual. Both of them only explain how to do it if the entire forks are removed. I want to know if I can keep the uppers attached and just swap out the lowers. Also.. while I am in there.. are there any upgrades I should do?
I have the Clymer manual and the Harley Service manual. Both of them only explain how to do it if the entire forks are removed. I want to know if I can keep the uppers attached and just swap out the lowers. Also.. while I am in there.. are there any upgrades I should do?
Chrome forks
I had mine Chromed. A lot of shops will try to swap you, but I was not comfortable with that. "THE" best upgrade I have done to my bike was to install Riccor Intimator Dampners. There is a great thread on this just recently. Fantastic results.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 996
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From: Surprise, AZ
If I understand you correctly you want to swap the lowers while still keeping your fork tubes in the trees. If that's the case I think the tricky part would be driving the fork seals in once you go to reassemble it among other things. I would think it would be possible but I would also guess it would make the job more of a PITA than it needs to be.
As far as upgrades I would definitely do springs. I completely regret not upgrading mine. Im going to go back in and add springs and Riccor Intimator's in the near future.
As far as upgrades I would definitely do springs. I completely regret not upgrading mine. Im going to go back in and add springs and Riccor Intimator's in the near future.
Last edited by CB024; Dec 20, 2013 at 11:20 AM.
It takes only a few extra bolts to get the fork tubes out of the trees. As long as the bike is in the air high enough the tubes will slide right out making your job a lot easier. Leaving them in the trees really saves you no time. And also it will make removing the sliders easier because you have more of a slide hammer effect to work with instead of rocking the bike all around. Again just easier off of the bike.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
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Thanks for the info... I wasn't sure if there was an alignment issue I would have to deal with if I remove the forks from the trees because the service manual doesn't make any mention of it. They state that after the forks are serviced I just slide them up into the trees, make sure they are 1/2" from the top of the top bolt to the top of the upper tree and torque them down with the pinch bolts. THEN.... install the wheel and the front fender.
I would have thought I shouldn't tighten the bolts until the wheel is installed.
If that's the case... I'll just remove them and work like a gentlemen.
I would have thought I shouldn't tighten the bolts until the wheel is installed.
If that's the case... I'll just remove them and work like a gentlemen.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
Thanks for the info... I wasn't sure if there was an alignment issue I would have to deal with if I remove the forks from the trees because the service manual doesn't make any mention of it. They state that after the forks are serviced I just slide them up into the trees, make sure they are 1/2" from the top of the top bolt to the top of the upper tree and torque them down with the pinch bolts. THEN.... install the wheel and the front fender.
I would have thought I shouldn't tighten the bolts until the wheel is installed.
If that's the case... I'll just remove them and work like a gentlemen.
I would have thought I shouldn't tighten the bolts until the wheel is installed.
If that's the case... I'll just remove them and work like a gentlemen.
I would take the tube out as well it will make life easier.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,446
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From:
Just follow the manual, have done many and there is not alignment procedure. Some people try a method not described in any manual I've seen, but they do it while installing the front wheel. I believe they only snug the bottom cap nuts and push the front tire up against something solid and compressing the forks and releasing. Then final torque the cap nuts.
Again I don't do it and never have had a problem.
Again I don't do it and never have had a problem.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
Just follow the manual, have done many and there is not alignment procedure. Some people try a method not described in any manual I've seen, but they do it while installing the front wheel. I believe they only snug the bottom cap nuts and push the front tire up against something solid and compressing the forks and releasing. Then final torque the cap nuts.
Again I don't do it and never have had a problem.
Again I don't do it and never have had a problem.
Do you know what the hole in the front axle is for?
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
It is not just for dual disc setups. I have a single disc Wide Glide as well, my axle and every other axle has that hole just for that purpose.
Last edited by 8541hog; Dec 22, 2013 at 03:04 PM.