Help with Progressive fork springs
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 848
Likes: 8
From:
I have an '07 WG. When I did a front end service on it this past summer (reinstalling intiminators as well) to resolve a blown fork seal, I cut my spacers to ~1.25" above the fork tube, fully extended. I like a slightly firmer ride. I also used amsoil fork oil as mentioned previously in this thread.
The installation instructions are more of a guide when it comes to spacers. I'd say cut them at the top of the range and go for a ride. If it's too stiff, just cut it down until you find what you like.
So with forks fully extended with spring and washer installed. Measure from top of spring/washer to top of fork tube. Add ~1" +/-. Cut spacer to that length. Install spacers and fork cap. Lower bike. Go for a ride.
For the record, 1.5" sched 40 pvc works well. Outside diameter will fit nicely inside the fork tubes. It's cheap and available at your local big box home store.
Just in case you fubar what you have. Outside diameter of spacer has to be under 2" in diameter to fit inside fork tube.
The installation instructions are more of a guide when it comes to spacers. I'd say cut them at the top of the range and go for a ride. If it's too stiff, just cut it down until you find what you like.
So with forks fully extended with spring and washer installed. Measure from top of spring/washer to top of fork tube. Add ~1" +/-. Cut spacer to that length. Install spacers and fork cap. Lower bike. Go for a ride.
For the record, 1.5" sched 40 pvc works well. Outside diameter will fit nicely inside the fork tubes. It's cheap and available at your local big box home store.
Just in case you fubar what you have. Outside diameter of spacer has to be under 2" in diameter to fit inside fork tube.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 848
Likes: 8
From:
As far as oil goes, I use amzoil 10w shock therapy. 10w is probably the best weight to start with for your bike. Unfortunatley the only way to know how much of the spacer to cut off is to put it back together and check the sag. I would initially cut it so the spring is 2" over the tube and test out the sag. 1/3 of the total travel comes out roughly to
1 1/2" of sag. (your bike sitting on the ground by itself vs. your bike with you sitting on it) The easiest way to do this is put a zip tie around your fork tubes right above the dust seal. The zip tie will move when you sit on it and then you can measure.
Not sure what you are trying to accomplish with the progressive spring but the better choice would have been to use the stock spring with ricor intimidators.
1 1/2" of sag. (your bike sitting on the ground by itself vs. your bike with you sitting on it) The easiest way to do this is put a zip tie around your fork tubes right above the dust seal. The zip tie will move when you sit on it and then you can measure.
Not sure what you are trying to accomplish with the progressive spring but the better choice would have been to use the stock spring with ricor intimidators.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,477
Likes: 5
From: New Braunfels, Texas
have a question... I worked on my forks on my work bench. When I took the fork caps off for the first time they were under a decent amount of tension and as soon as the caps came off the fork oil shot out of the top of them and into my bucket. How do I prevent this from happening when they are installed on the bike. I don't want fork oil soaking my by bike.
The spacer goes on top...none of the order changes. It's the same as when you took it apart. It also shows a picture in your shop manual. Make sure you pump the forks up and down a bunch of time before you put the springs and spacer back in to get the air in the oil out. If you don't want to get oil on your bike then cover it. If you have to take the springs out again, take them out slowly while turning them and most of the oil will drain back into the tubes.
Most of us are still learning here but I have found if you research every step carefully before you start the project it will go much smoother.
Last edited by rooti; Jan 13, 2014 at 02:33 PM.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 848
Likes: 8
From:
Do you mean if you have to take it back apart? Either way you want to put a rag over the fork cap when it is almost off and push down so you keep it under control.
The spacer goes on top...none of the order changes. It's the same as when you took it apart. It also shows a picture in your shop manual. Make sure you pump the forks up and down a bunch of time before you put the springs and spacer back in to get the air in the oil out. If you don't want to get oil on your bike then cover it. If you have to take the springs out again, take them out slowly while turning them and most of the oil will drain back into the tubes.
Most of us are still learning here but I have found if you research every step carefully before you start the project it will go much smoother.
The spacer goes on top...none of the order changes. It's the same as when you took it apart. It also shows a picture in your shop manual. Make sure you pump the forks up and down a bunch of time before you put the springs and spacer back in to get the air in the oil out. If you don't want to get oil on your bike then cover it. If you have to take the springs out again, take them out slowly while turning them and most of the oil will drain back into the tubes.
Most of us are still learning here but I have found if you research every step carefully before you start the project it will go much smoother.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,477
Likes: 5
From: New Braunfels, Texas
Put the oil in first and get the air out. No point in putting everything in and taking it back out to put oil in it.
It's also much easier getting the fork caps back on while it's on the bike. If it were me, I would put it back together and work on it on the bike. You can refill the oil before hand if you want to get an exact measurement but I just measure with it on the bike. If you do it that way you have to measure in the middle of the tube because the rake of the bike will make the oil sit in the tubes at an angle.
It's also much easier getting the fork caps back on while it's on the bike. If it were me, I would put it back together and work on it on the bike. You can refill the oil before hand if you want to get an exact measurement but I just measure with it on the bike. If you do it that way you have to measure in the middle of the tube because the rake of the bike will make the oil sit in the tubes at an angle.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 848
Likes: 8
From:
What threw me off was the spacers that are included in the 11-1525 kit. They are only about 4" long each and when I drop the spring, washer and spacer into my fully extended fork tube they are easily 3 inches shy from reaching from the top. The original stock spring, washer and metal spacer that I took out extended out of the top of the fork an easy 3". The Progressive instructions for 2006-2008 Wideglide state that the stock (original) spacer can be shortened to length. Instead I am going to get some 1.5" schedule 40 PVC and make my own. I plan on installing it with the spacer extending 1" over the top of the tube.
The service manual states to put in enough fork oil to be 4.4" from the top of the tube. Progressive states to make the level 5.5" because the larger thicker Progressive spring will displace more oil than the Harley stock spring. This makes sense. I guess no matter what... as long as the fork oil is 4.4" from the top edge of the fork tube after the spring is installed I should be alright. Correct? Should I take the measurement after the spacer is installed too?
Basically... once I have the spring, the washer, the spacer (1" sticking out of the top of my fully extended fork tube) where should the oil level be?
The service manual states to put in enough fork oil to be 4.4" from the top of the tube. Progressive states to make the level 5.5" because the larger thicker Progressive spring will displace more oil than the Harley stock spring. This makes sense. I guess no matter what... as long as the fork oil is 4.4" from the top edge of the fork tube after the spring is installed I should be alright. Correct? Should I take the measurement after the spacer is installed too?
Basically... once I have the spring, the washer, the spacer (1" sticking out of the top of my fully extended fork tube) where should the oil level be?
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 848
Likes: 8
From:
I have an '07 WG. When I did a front end service on it this past summer (reinstalling intiminators as well) to resolve a blown fork seal, I cut my spacers to ~1.25" above the fork tube, fully extended. I like a slightly firmer ride. I also used amsoil fork oil as mentioned previously in this thread.
The installation instructions are more of a guide when it comes to spacers. I'd say cut them at the top of the range and go for a ride. If it's too stiff, just cut it down until you find what you like.
So with forks fully extended with spring and washer installed. Measure from top of spring/washer to top of fork tube. Add ~1" +/-. Cut spacer to that length. Install spacers and fork cap. Lower bike. Go for a ride.
For the record, 1.5" sched 40 pvc works well. Outside diameter will fit nicely inside the fork tubes. It's cheap and available at your local big box home store. Just in case you fubar what you have. Outside diameter of spacer has to be under 2" in diameter to fit inside fork tube.
The installation instructions are more of a guide when it comes to spacers. I'd say cut them at the top of the range and go for a ride. If it's too stiff, just cut it down until you find what you like.
So with forks fully extended with spring and washer installed. Measure from top of spring/washer to top of fork tube. Add ~1" +/-. Cut spacer to that length. Install spacers and fork cap. Lower bike. Go for a ride.
For the record, 1.5" sched 40 pvc works well. Outside diameter will fit nicely inside the fork tubes. It's cheap and available at your local big box home store.
Just in case you fubar what you have. Outside diameter of spacer has to be under 2" in diameter to fit inside fork tube.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,399
Likes: 92
From: ny
You need to put the fork oil in before you put the spring Washer and spacer .You need to pump the sliders so you got all the air out.For my 2011 Wide Glide its five and a half inches from the top of the tube without anything installed.Once you have the fluid level correct then you can put everything back in the forks.
I find it easier to reassemble with the forks Back in the trees.
I find it easier to reassemble with the forks Back in the trees.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,477
Likes: 5
From: New Braunfels, Texas
I would also have it sticking 2 or 3 inches over to start. Easier to cut then to buy a new spacer. I would put the oil level that is recommended in your shop manual for your specific bike.
