soldering question
SPONGE! Only file down your tip if rubbing it down on a wet sponge doesn't make it shiny. If the sponge doesn't work then that means your tip is no good. Each time you make a solder joint the tip should be shiny. That means each time you pick it up you should be rubbing the tip on a sponge to clean it off and apply a bit of solder to it. The solder should melt onto the tip in about a second. If it takes longer than that then the iron isn't hot enough. When you make the solder joint the solder should flow into the connections by capillary action. The solder going into the connection should be fresh from the spool, not coming off the iron. The solder on the joint should also be shiny. If it's not then that probably means you heated it for too long.
Strip the wire and apply flux to both wires, to help the solder flow. You can tin each wire separately with solder and then wrap them together, after you put the heat shrink in line. Apply heat till the solder melts the 2 wires together and pull heat shrink over the joint. I also suggest a soldering iron over a torch for the actual soldering and maybe a torch or heat gun for the heat shrink.
Great, great tips! Because of my inexperience, I'm definitely going with the butane iron that can be used for soldering and shrinking. I noticed that I need resin core solder instead of what I used on plumbing, and I'm getting .032 size to keep from getting too much. Yea, I'll practice first, too. I found a heat shrink tube that I think is appropriate. It is dual wall, flexible and has adhesive inside. Just got to find a place that prices it reasonably. Thanks, again.
SPONGE! Only file down your tip if rubbing it down on a wet sponge doesn't make it shiny. If the sponge doesn't work then that means your tip is no good. Each time you make a solder joint the tip should be shiny. That means each time you pick it up you should be rubbing the tip on a sponge to clean it off and apply a bit of solder to it. The solder should melt onto the tip in about a second. If it takes longer than that then the iron isn't hot enough. When you make the solder joint the solder should flow into the connections by capillary action. The solder going into the connection should be fresh from the spool, not coming off the iron. The solder on the joint should also be shiny. If it's not then that probably means you heated it for too long.
A heat gun is safer for your paint, etc. as long as you don`t heat too much.
I took a couple of soldering courses in the military. An HRS (high reliability soldering) and a micro-min repair course. I've read lots of good tips here and would like to add my own. Clean. Clean. Clean. Wipe stripped wires with isopropyl alcohol and do the same to the solder before using it. Doing so will remove lots of wee impurities before soldering. Do the same to the left over flux after the soldering. Flux is incredibly corrosive and will damage the wire if given enough time. Use a Eutectic solder if you can find it. 63/37 lead to tin. Lower melting point, easy to use and preferred on electronics.
Like others said. Practice. Have fun tackling this.
Like others said. Practice. Have fun tackling this.
Apply a "drop" of solder to the tip of the iron before touching wires to act as a heat bridge. This will reduce the time needed to get the solder to "flow" so as not to overheat. Use enough, but not to much solder on the connection. You should end up with a bright, shiny connection and still be able to see the contour of the wire when done properly. Clean flux off with Isoproyl when done.








