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Well hell why not? You oughta' be able to replace the mainshaft on the side of the road by now...(with the engine running!
The only thing I havnt torn down is the steering head and the front forks. Be nice to have a bike I could just ride without something breaking every other month.
The only thing I havnt torn down is the steering head and the front forks. Be nice to have a bike I could just ride without something breaking every other month.
The kind of oil you run isn't going to keep what is fundamentally wrong with '07 and later big twins. Inner primary bearings, tranny mainshafts and S/E comps only mask the symptom IMO. ( I suspect the tranny personally.)
My '00 Road Glide has 140,000 miles on it. It's got the original comp, IPB and the tranny's never been touched. So what happened between my bike and the '07s and later? Prior to '07 there was never even a need for a S/E comp, that came after the problems came. As I said, I suspect a fundamental design flaw.
Your crank shaft is shorter(no pun intended, lol). '06 is when they lengthened it and added more splins on touring models and I think '05+ on dynas. Not sure why the hell they did this but that's why we are no more prone to shitty runout. The shorter shaft with thicker splines didn't need to relay on the Compensator nearly as much is was simply strong setup for builds.
Your crank shaft is shorter(no pun intended, lol). '06 is when they lengthened it and added more splins on touring models and I think '05+ on dynas. Not sure why the hell they did this but that's why we are no more prone to shitty runout. The shorter shaft with thicker splines didn't need to relay on the Compensator nearly as much is was simply strong setup for builds.
I watched an interesting you tube explaining how the splines on the jackshaft were manufactured a while back. The video explained the the grooves were cut by a cutter that slipped over the shaft and pressed down to make the grooves. Basically their point was though the cutter was 90 degrees to the shaft, the cutting process wasn't as precise as it could be.
The result was a compensator with its own "run out" separate from the pressed flywheels because the grooves weren't totally "true" to the shaft.
If true, the combination of that rotation with the wobble in the mainshaft on the tranny (my theory,) with an over tightening adjuster and the whole system is just asking for trouble on a small percentage of the bikes. (And agreed, the longer stroke doesn't help anything either.)
So fellas whats the prognosis on the Hayden M6 after all? I had bought it a few months ago but haven't installed it yet. Just pulled the primary off and installed the andrews 30t. Was it money well spent or should I put the stock one back in?
Some like it, some dont. I went with Baker cause with 128k on my primary chain I figured she's done stretching so no need for an auto adjuster. Just personal preference. I wont dog the M6 with no personal experience.
A couple of things bother me about the Hayden tensioner:
On the video on their website, the chain and tensioner are moving around an awful lot.
Under acceleration, the tension will be at the top of the chain. On decel, the tension will move to the bottom of the chain, and collapse the spring loaded tensioner. Very sloppy chain (if it matters).
For those who have switched to a manual tensioner, how often have you found that you need to pull the primary cover and adjust it?
Last edited by Warp Factor; Feb 9, 2014 at 07:22 AM.
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