Vibra-Technics motor mount install
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 97
From: Northern VA
It was not easy but I was able to torque the engine bolts using the crowfoot wrench at 90 degrees. .with the frame and wheel in the way and not wanting to round off the bolt head. .wasn't fun. Having that oil filter out of the way would make that step 10x easier.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 2
From: Deltona, FL
I'm so glad I decided to stop in and check the site today! I was just about to drop the money on a new Harley front mount. Now I'll just order this one instead! I've been waiting for word of this mount to hit.
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 676
Likes: 2
From: Glendale, AZ
Just one installation comment: This install was much easier using your motorcycle lift. You can easily remove the stock mount with the bike on the lift, without using a 2nd jack or any additional support of the motor, as your lift sits under it.
Then, when you are ready to install the new mount, lower your lift, place a small block of wood (i used a small square of plywood, 3/4 thick) between your lift and the motor. When you jack the bike back up...the motor moves up a bit higher because of the wood...and the mount slips right in.
Then, when you are ready to install the new mount, lower your lift, place a small block of wood (i used a small square of plywood, 3/4 thick) between your lift and the motor. When you jack the bike back up...the motor moves up a bit higher because of the wood...and the mount slips right in.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
Monster715,
Great photo! Your flange on the motor is different from an EVO motor. Even though the bolt pattern for the isolator to the flange is the same, the orientation of those bolts are very different. Now I can understand why you said it would be easier to remove the oil filter for torqueing. My bolts are to the outside and removing the oil filter does not do much for the EVO motor. Thanks for the information. I appreciate that and will feed that back to the engineer of this isolator.
Great photo! Your flange on the motor is different from an EVO motor. Even though the bolt pattern for the isolator to the flange is the same, the orientation of those bolts are very different. Now I can understand why you said it would be easier to remove the oil filter for torqueing. My bolts are to the outside and removing the oil filter does not do much for the EVO motor. Thanks for the information. I appreciate that and will feed that back to the engineer of this isolator.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
Just one installation comment: This install was much easier using your motorcycle lift. You can easily remove the stock mount with the bike on the lift, without using a 2nd jack or any additional support of the motor, as your lift sits under it.
Then, when you are ready to install the new mount, lower your lift, place a small block of wood (i used a small square of plywood, 3/4 thick) between your lift and the motor. When you jack the bike back up...the motor moves up a bit higher because of the wood...and the mount slips right in.
Then, when you are ready to install the new mount, lower your lift, place a small block of wood (i used a small square of plywood, 3/4 thick) between your lift and the motor. When you jack the bike back up...the motor moves up a bit higher because of the wood...and the mount slips right in.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4,501
Likes: 4,065
From: South Fla
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
I took the bike to work today, traffic sucked so I couldn't ride very hard but I do have some feedback. I never had any huge complaints about vibration before the mount but I have noticed a reduction in high rpm vibration. Right around 2700-3k rpms there seems to be a little more vibration when cruising, but then again it could be from the smoother feel above and below that range. I was able to hit about 95 on a concrete portion of the freeway and the bike felt solid, no wallowing. The only other thing I've noticed is a quick and slight vibration in the right. peg when dropping a gear to pass and running over road turtles. I'm guessing it's just one of those things that sometimes comes with new parts and I'll get used to it. Hopefully I can get away this weekend and go hit some twistys, and I'll post on that
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,120
Likes: 17
From: Indiana
I took the bike to work today, traffic sucked so I couldn't ride very hard but I do have some feedback. I never had any huge complaints about vibration before the mount but I have noticed a reduction in high rpm vibration. Right around 2700-3k rpms there seems to be a little more vibration when cruising, but then again it could be from the smoother feel above and below that range. I was able to hit about 95 on a concrete portion of the freeway and the bike felt solid, no wallowing. The only other thing I've noticed is a quick and slight vibration in the right. peg when dropping a gear to pass and running over road turtles. I'm guessing it's just one of those things that sometimes comes with new parts and I'll get used to it. Hopefully I can get away this weekend and go hit some twistys, and I'll post on that
Last edited by JaronB; Feb 11, 2014 at 09:12 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
I believe so. The stabilizer link is designed to stop lateral movement of the motor which is what the others you mentioned do. The bonus is an improved mount that won't need replacement every 10k miles. I need to do more research on the rear mount since true track looks like they only sell the stabilizers as a kit, but I've heard the rear mount is a pretty good design. Anyone else have any input on that?