Vibra-Technics motor mount install
Last night I got a new support block in (I cross threaded my original, could have cleaned it up with a tap if I had one but Phil offered a replacement so I took it. .I'll clean that one up some day as a 'spare').
The second go around was better, but still difficult. It's important that you work slow. You'll be adjusting the scissor jack to raise the engine up/down a hair here, a hair there. .pushing the mount slightly this way or that way to get the bolts all threaded in properly. What's working against you is once that center bolt gets threaded in almost all the way, the clearance is such that the entire mount assembly is wedged between the engine and the frame. It makes for lining up the remaining bolts tricky.
Starting with the OEM mount removed, (2) Voltage Regulator allen bolts removed, Crankshaft position sensor disconnected as well as the front header O2 sensor and pushed aside, you will be able to insert the V-T mount minus the support block and center bolt through the front of the frame and under the engine. The stabilizer bracket will need to be manipulated out of the way during this step:

Next, apply some threadlocker 243 (blue) to the center bolt and insert through the top mount washer, the top mount, and line up the stabilizer bracket to receive the bolt:

This is the most crucial step, and takes a while. You will be raising the engine up keeping a careful eye on any wiring that may be pinched. The support block is inserted from below and what you're looking for is the center bolt to thread 'easily' into the support block. Because of the angles and lack of space, this is difficult. Thanks to advice from James (californiafatbob2013), once I finally got the bolt into the threads of the support block, I threaded it all the way in, then backed it off about a turn or two. This helps with aligning the remaining bolts but ensures the center bolt doesn't get cross threaded as you will be pushing/prying the mount around for the remaining bolts.

Take your time, playing with the scissor jack raising/lowering the engine, and visually confirming the alignment of the threaded holes. .you'll eventually get the two 17mm bolts started. Don't insert all the way as you'll need them a little loose to get the frame bolts going:

Frame bolts in. Engine bolts and frame bolts torqued to 25-27 ft-lb with engine still supported. The instructions call for threadlocker 243 (blue) on all fasteners:

After the frame and engine bolts are torqued to spec, you can remove the weight of the engine from the scissor jack to let the rubber portion of the mount find its natural center. At this point, carefully final torque the center bolt to 40-45 ft-lb without stripping out the head of the bolt. This is tricky with limited room to move the torque wrench between the wheel and frame. Then re-attach the voltage regulator, sensors, and cover.
All finished:

Tools used:
17mm combination wrench
3/8" Drive 17mm Crowfoot wrench
Metric allen sockets (8mm for center bolt, I believe 6mm for frame bolts, will have to double check)
SAE Allen socket for voltage regulator bolts
3/8" Drive 20-100 ft-lb torque wrench
3/8" Drive Ratchet(s)
Loctite 243

When you're finished and the bike is on it's kickstand, do a final confirmation that the center bolt isn't cross threaded by sticking your finger in the center mount hole and ensuring the washer underneath the center bolt isn't able to spin or move. If the center bolt is correctly torqued, the washer will not be able to spin by hand.
Test ride to come weather permitting.
Matt
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