How much is too much?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 50
From: Rouses Point, N.Y.
when I built mine the crank run out was .002 Scott from hillside told me there would be no issues with my crank on my 2011 . the first build stage II made 105/109 and I wailed the hell out of her for 10,000 miles with no issues. second time around now stage 4 this motor is wicked from the last build every time u grab a gear this thing is bouncing off the rev limiter instantly. only 300 miles on this build, time will tell but I have good faith it will last .
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
Understood, I have read about the tolerances required before going to a gear driven cam.
Haven't heard of it in terms of a general health check, but it stands to reason the further out the more susceptible you might be.
Not going to a gear driven cam, but Ill add it to my list of things to check, at least I will know for future work or reference. So are you saying, under a .006 would likely be ok? I thought the reason behind the bottom end work was to 1) fix the tolerances required for gear driven cams, 2) make it stronger so you dont twist or otherwise break things. which #2 is why I inquire.
Maybe I'm going about asking the question the wrong way. For those who have gone into the bottom end for the sake of pining and welding, what were the motivating factors?
Haven't heard of it in terms of a general health check, but it stands to reason the further out the more susceptible you might be.
Not going to a gear driven cam, but Ill add it to my list of things to check, at least I will know for future work or reference. So are you saying, under a .006 would likely be ok? I thought the reason behind the bottom end work was to 1) fix the tolerances required for gear driven cams, 2) make it stronger so you dont twist or otherwise break things. which #2 is why I inquire.
Maybe I'm going about asking the question the wrong way. For those who have gone into the bottom end for the sake of pining and welding, what were the motivating factors?
A marginal runout number means that there is a higher risk that you could "scissor" the flywheels and pretty much ruin everything below the heads, some failures are worse than others. The biggest factors to consider are how big the engine build is, how aggressive you ride your bike and the runout number. There are no set in stone guidelines on what to do with this build and that runout, you just have to study and decide for yourself, I have told you what I think and I know there are others that would disagree - it is a little bit like buying insurance, maybe you need it maybe you don't.
Who knows, maybe you measure your runout and get a number like target64 and you will be good to go and no worries but if you don't check then your are taking an unnecessary risk. Maybe with mild bolt in cams and a Stage 1 with a not so aggressive rider you can skip the check but once you start talking about headwork, moderate cams, throttle body upgrades, etc now you really better do the check.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 50
From: Rouses Point, N.Y.
Alan u are exactly right any one doing any major upgrade should have the crank runout checked. when I did the maddghost's 107 he was also lucky his runout was very low. He is a very aggressive rider and cranks on his bike all the time, and has had no issues.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,384
Likes: 12
From: Out on Deranged
@ rgr357 All I ca suggest is don't go at it piece meal, you will wind up spending extra money and having parts collecting dust on a shelf. Get what you really want the first time so take your time and think it through. Also you will get better quality work done by a professional buider rather than spend money on HD's SE watered down performance.
Last edited by maddghost; Mar 4, 2014 at 04:45 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 389
Likes: 9
From: MT
Much appreciated!
A common theme to many of the posts on this & other sites are how someone did x last and will be doing y next to get more out of it. At the same time racking up $ going in and out of the build & parts lining up on the bench. Shoot I'm on my 2nd AC & sitting on some vance & hines 2-2 that sound great & look great, but stop there. Think Ill call it lesson learned and not just drop a 204 cam/SEPro on it.
For now Ill get the Feuling Crank run out tool on the way and start putting the pieces together; then engage Scott from Hillside. The SE Pro Stage IV is tempting at $1900 but I like the idea of really building to my riding preference and also like the TTS over the SEPro (that comes in the stage IV kit).
Crank run out will have a lot to do with the direction, hope I'm one of the lucky ones.
A common theme to many of the posts on this & other sites are how someone did x last and will be doing y next to get more out of it. At the same time racking up $ going in and out of the build & parts lining up on the bench. Shoot I'm on my 2nd AC & sitting on some vance & hines 2-2 that sound great & look great, but stop there. Think Ill call it lesson learned and not just drop a 204 cam/SEPro on it.
For now Ill get the Feuling Crank run out tool on the way and start putting the pieces together; then engage Scott from Hillside. The SE Pro Stage IV is tempting at $1900 but I like the idea of really building to my riding preference and also like the TTS over the SEPro (that comes in the stage IV kit).
Crank run out will have a lot to do with the direction, hope I'm one of the lucky ones.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,384
Likes: 12
From: Out on Deranged
The SEpro tuner involves a dyno tuner and 4 - ? hours on the dyno and every time you change something significant a new tune.
The tts unless they have radically changed something is a little hard on the user aes you must 9or at least used to) ride around with a laptop recording data to create your next tune.
I would recommend the powervision for it's ease of use, just a few hours of reading up and you'll be tuning your bike on your own.
The tts unless they have radically changed something is a little hard on the user aes you must 9or at least used to) ride around with a laptop recording data to create your next tune.
I would recommend the powervision for it's ease of use, just a few hours of reading up and you'll be tuning your bike on your own.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
