dyna clunk
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: morgantown wv
he's 20 year Harley tech. said that's all needed to be done. guess he was wrong. and as for me not doing my own service. this is my first Harley and my first bike of any kind in 33 years since I got out of the United States Navy. just figured I would take it and have it done right. guess I was wrong also.
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From: Texas
we all know how these bitches vibrate and things get loose...could it be that your front fork tubes are experiencing more vibration now that the front is tightened up and either the upper tubes are loose and rotating or the light clamps are not as tight as you think they are?
I understand what you are saying but I am having a difficult time visualizing the scenario you are describing...can you post a photo of your light setup?
I understand what you are saying but I am having a difficult time visualizing the scenario you are describing...can you post a photo of your light setup?
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From: morgantown wv
that's probably what is going on. this thing has a screamin eagle 95 kit with some radical cams and about shakes my old bones apart. i'll try to get some pics posted of the setup. tks, 
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Arizona
The lower tree pinch bolts need to be loose when doing the neck bearing adjustment so the top & bottom trees can find their "natural" location in relation to each other. If not, then tightening (or loosening) the bearing adjustment creates a "binding affect" between the upper & lower trees. He may have loosened the T/S clamps to allow free movement of the fork tubes in the lower tree when making the bearing adjustment.
Just make sure everything it tightened correctly & it should not move again.
Just make sure everything it tightened correctly & it should not move again.
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From: Detroit
When you change the neck bearing adjustment, the distance between the upper and lower trees will change. (They will be closer together after tightening the bearings, for instance). The lower fork tube pinch bolts need to be loosened to allow this to happen properly. If the fork tubes are still stuck in place after loosening the pinch bolts, the manual recommends freeing them by hitting them with a dead blow hammer.
If you manage to change the adjustment without having the fork tubes free in the clamps, you've done it by bending parts.
If you manage to change the adjustment without having the fork tubes free in the clamps, you've done it by bending parts.
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From: morgantown wv
that all makes sense. I've never worked on bikes at all. I was a heavy collision tech (frame man) in body shops for a lot of years. what doesn't make any sense about this is the right signal is moving backwards and the left signal is moving forward. got to be the tubes rotating, wouldn't you say?