Thanks for all the replies...I was expecting a spirited debate and I got one.

As I mentioned before, I researched the torque cones and am well aware of the controversy surrounding the claims of increasing performance. I have had my pipes off several times since I got these things and the controversy (along with the problems with my carburetor tuning and jetting I was having) is the only reason it took me so long to decide to put them on. It is raining every day here and I decided what the hell, and put them on. I personally see some improvement. (I wonder how many of you poo-pooing them actually have measurable first hand experience or are just repeating what you have heard/read ).

One of the first things I learned when I first started turning wrenches on my old cars and then learning aircraft maintenance is to do one thing at a time and then check the results. Unfortunately, this is labor extensive to do and way too many mechanics will swap out several parts at the same time to modify for performance or fix a problem. When you do this, it saves money if you are paying someone to do it but you will never know whether one of the parts or fixes worked as advertised. This kind of throwing parts at a problem or attempts to improve performance leads to not knowing which caused a different problem or fixed the existing problem.

For example with these torque cones, if I had rebuilt my carb and put the torque cones on before putting some miles on the carb rebuild, then how would I know which one of these changes had the most effect? After all the problems I have had with my carburetor and undoing all the aftermarket "performance mods" that had been done to it by a PO and rejetting it with HD parts, it has never ran better, and installing the torque cones just added a little more umph...not much, but enough to be noticeable. I do need to put some more miles on with these torque cones installed to truly assess the improvement or to establish if there was significant improvement to warrant the trouble of putting them on, but since I am doing the labor myself, then the expense is negligible.

Folks, I am not looking for validation for deciding to put on the cones, I am simply reporting what I have done and my own personal assessment. Also, I am not claiming to be a super HD mechanic. I am an old-school simple shade tree mechanic who has been formally trained and licensed with many years under my belt as an aircraft technician who also likes to tinker with cars and small engines and stuff.

If you want to try cones on your drag pipes or unrestricted/mildly restricted pipes, then don't let someone else tell you they are the cure-all for your ills or just snake-oil...find out for yourself.

Peace, out

 

I agree. When I could not get the carb tuned with the Hooker pipes installed, I took my SG to my local HD dealer to tune it. They had it for several days and started out with a dyno run to assess the current tune and establish a baseline. After several runs, they told me that the carburetor needed to be rejetted and the aftermarket parts replaced but their quote to do this was way too high IMO. That is when I decided to just change the pipes and try to do it myself. I was aware that I might have to go inside the carb and do what they recommended before getting it right but when I replaced the pipes, I was able to get a decent tune without tearing it down. When the accelerator pump diaphragm started leaking, I knew I would have to tear it down so I decided to take out the aftermarket parts and rejet it then. The only thing I left in it from the original tune was the 48 pilot jet...because the engine idled fine with that size jet.

 

I have tried the Tq cones in and out of 2 different DWG's. Since I did not see any improvement I figured they are restricting the ex port. If you want true anti reversing that improves preformance get a 2-1 exhaust.

 

I installed the TCs on my 94 LowRider with drag pipes and they made a noticeable difference.

If you are starting with a good exhaust system then likely no difference but I've always heard they're the ticket for drag pipes.

 

Nope. The ticket for drag pipes is to get rid of the the drag pipes.

If you are so <insert whatever word seems appropriate> as to run drag pipes on a street bike then sticking some extra restriction in there to fix them is just about what you deserve.

 

Both my bikes were purchased with drag pipes already on them. Should I cram some tampons up them or something?

 

Nah, ya should do what makes you happy :P

 

I am a teacher and while I do have a few weeks off now, I do not have $500+ to blow on a new exhaust system.

The bike had a Hooker 2-in-1 system on when I got it. The head pipes and heat shields are in pretty good shape but the muffler was pretty beat up and badly discolored. I got this Samson Conquest Wildcat system NOS for $80 shipped. They are 2-in-2 pipes with long horn style long mufflers and I installed the least restrictive baffle. Samson also sells torque cones for their systems for around $80 but I scored a pair for $20. Like I previously mentioned, if I could find a replacement long straight slip-on for the Hooker head pipes that didn't cost more than $200, I would be on it. Hooker is not producing motorcycle systems from what I can find out so all that is out there is NOS and used junk. I am still looking. If anyone knows where I can get a long straight slip-on with a 2 1/2 inch inlet let me know... I am thinking now that I got that so called performance crap out of the carburetor and it is tuning, I might actually finally be able get the system to work like it is supposed to...

 

Sometimes I feel like Im preaching to the deaf. No good dead goes unpunished.

 

In order to get the correct differences it should be on a dyno, no tuning, just a run to see where you are. A dyno run should not be over $50. If they charge more than that you don't need them doing anything for you. I pay $45 for a run with a complete print out. It only shows hp/tq. for a base run more equipment will be used so the cost goes up. I do most of my tunes myself with a little help from my dyno guy.

Now back to the toque cones. I have used em in the past. I did achieve a slight improvement. like 2 hp/3tq differences. If you want low end a 2 into 1 is your best bet. For sound I think the 2 into 2 sounds great. I talking carb bikes. I ran 2 into 2 for some time and finally went to a 2 into 1. I got low end out the yang yang now.