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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Not sure how you got screwed. You bought something that wasn't specified for your bike. Big surprise...it doesn't fit. How is this anyones fault but you own?
you didnt get screwed, those wheels will fit a 2012 switchback, just as advertised... some folks could fit those wheels on anything, some folks cant...I have 08 crossbones wheels on an 07 Dyna, did I expect an easy direct fit? No, I had to make them work...
Last edited by SuperFastGlide; Aug 9, 2014 at 09:45 AM.
I'm confused. Maybe you don't understand how the HD bearing/spacer/wheelhub stacks up. The spacer needs to be longer than the wheel bore. Press primary (rotor side) bearing in until fully seated against the wheel bore. Insert spacer from non-primary side. Press non-primary bearing in until seated firmly against spacer. What's the problem?
25mm or 1" bearings doesn't matter they both have the same O.D. so the wheel will have the same bore size for either.
Originally Posted by machm1969
The older wider bearings fit like they're supposed to and sit flush with the outer part of the hub like they're supposed to. In the pic I included the bearing spacer for a '12 FLD, notice it's about 1/4" too long? If I used the 25mm bearings and installed them putting the left side in first, the left side bearing would be recessed in the hub about 1/4" and the right would have a 1/4" gap between the inside edge of the bearing and the inside of the wheel.
This tells me you don't understand how the bearings are supposed to be installed. You never worry about 'flush'. You only worry about is the primary side (rotor side) fully seated against lip in wheel hub, and then that the spacer is longer than the bore (it has to be), and that the non-primary bearing is seated against the spacer. Get the idea of the bearings being 'flush' out of your head it has nothing to do with bearing installation.
If you're installing the bearings flush to the wheel hub and calling it good of course you're going to blow through bearings. When you torque down the axle nut you're forcing the wheel spacers against the inner race of both bearings with 'zero' support on the opposite side of the bearings. Result? Pre-loaded inner races and destroyed bearings. The manual covers this. If you're taking this to shops to have it done I'd find a new shop they don't have a clue.
I drew these a while ago they will help you understand:
I'm confused. Maybe you don't understand how the HD bearing/spacer/wheelhub stacks up. The spacer needs to be longer than the wheel bore. Press primary (rotor side) bearing in until fully seated against the wheel bore. Insert spacer from non-primary side. Press non-primary bearing in until seated firmly against spacer. What's the problem?
25mm or 1" bearings doesn't matter they both have the same O.D. so the wheel will have the same bore size for either.
This tells me you don't understand how the bearings are supposed to be installed. You never worry about 'flush'. You only worry about is the primary side (rotor side) fully seated against lip in wheel hub, and then that the spacer is longer than the bore (it has to be), and that the non-primary bearing is seated against the spacer. Get the idea of the bearings being 'flush' out of your head it has nothing to do with bearing installation.
If you're installing the bearings flush to the wheel hub and calling it good of course you're going to blow through bearings. When you torque down the axle nut you're forcing the wheel spacers against the inner race of both bearings with 'zero' support on the opposite side of the bearings. Result? Pre-loaded inner races and destroyed bearings. The manual covers this. If you're taking this to shops to have it done I'd find a new shop they don't have a clue.
I drew these a while ago they will help you understand:
This is the reason you should use the HD wheel puller/installer tool. The tool keeps the bearing in the rotor side in place while the bearing on the other side is pressed in. The inner spacer will push the rotor side bearing out if there is noting holding it in place.
The problem was finally solved. The mechanic I took it to installed 1" bearings instead of the correct 25mm. When I took it to him he said he had bearings and would make his own spacers (he builds alot of custom bikes and said he does this often). I should've bought the HD install kits. I questioned the 1" bearings since I believe everything '08 an newer takes 25mm bearings, but he said you can tell those wheels take the 25mm bearings and these "Are machined" for the 1" bearings and look different. When I took the wheel into the dealer they said they also looked like they were for the 1" bearings and believed I had them machined for 1" bearings, ugh. (So they didn't know either). After looking stuff up it turns out the wheel does appear to be machined for 1" bearings, but uses 25mm and a spacer goes behind the bearings. So I had the mechanic saying the wheel was defective and the dealer claiming I had the wheel machined for other bearings (which I most certainly did not). The exploded view cleared things up. When I said they fit "flush" I didn't really mean flush, I meant "properly" which they seemed to fit, he did put the left side in first. If I would've bought the HD install kit and 25mm axles I think I would've been OK. I will definately do alot more homework first next time, and if a mechanic says something that doesn't seem right I will definately check things out before preceeding. An expensive lesson.
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