Vance & Hines FP3
I have short shots, quiet baffles with smartpatz installed and an RSD air cleaner. I was hoping the smartpatz didn't cause an issue with the mapping but it probably helped (more back pressure?)
Anyway, for what it's worth, the FP3 worked nicely and worth the cash IMO.
I would say having used absolutely nothing other than the FP3 (so having virtually no credibility at all), that the FP3 is perfectly good at what it's designed for; To be a mid level flash tuner for those that are looking to get better performance with their stage 1 changes.
I think if you have a distinctive popping then there may be a small exhaust leak or it's just not tuned 100%. I've read V&H will send you a custom map to your phone to get rid of any issues like that. They just adjust the decel fuel settings some I believe.
I'll give them a shout on Monday, maybe they'll be able to help, it's not what I'd consider to be bad though.
So basically copy your map to an empty slot, change just the decel enrichment and save. Then load it to your bike. Since this is a copied map you can always just go back to your original map.
If its hardly popping now then you may just be 1 setting away from no popping at all.
Now my first bike I had it Dyno tuned and I know what to expect from a tuned bike. When I bought my second bike I didn't want to spend 500 on a tuner and another 300 to 400 on a dyno tune..... the Fp3 was a perfect solution. I can tell you that my bike runs great and I never used the auto tune feature.... There are other tuners that allow you to record your map and make adjustments. But for me that would only get me into trouble!!!! There are different tuners because people have different needs.... hope this helps.....swifty
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So basically copy your map to an empty slot, change just the decel enrichment and save. Then load it to your bike. Since this is a copied map you can always just go back to your original map.
If its hardly popping now then you may just be 1 setting away from no popping at all.
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Here's something I googled that seems to explain better.
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You start out with an engine that is turning high RPM with a carb that is open, flowing freely. Next, you close that slide. This has the effect of creating a tremendous vaccuum in the intake manifold (CHOKE!). This vaccuum does curious things:
1. It pulls air and fuel from wherever it can--including the idle and low speed jetting in the carb.
2. To counteract the vaccuum, air will take the path of least resistance--including sucking exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber during valve overlap (the brief period of time that the exhaust and intake valves are open at the same time.
So what does this mean? Well, now you have a disproportionate rich mixture heading for the cylinder AND what little oxygen is drawn in is further diluted by gases that are coming back into the chamber from the exhaust valve. The result is poor, incomplete combustion! Depending on the temperature of the exhaust pipe and gases, reignition is possible once this mixture is introduced into a more oxygen rich environment. This produces the "pop."
Why does a lean running engine have a tendency to excessively pop? The exhaust gas temperature of a lean engine is substantially higher than one that is running on the rich side ( an EGT probe will show this). Therefore, the high EGT serves to heat the pipe more and the gases themselves become a much better source of re-ignition. By richening things up, you are cooling down the exhaust temp and therefore reducing potential re-ignition sources.
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