Dyna Glide Models Super Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Removing NOT replacing handlebars

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 09-10-2014, 11:48 AM
JoeDanger617's Avatar
JoeDanger617
JoeDanger617 is offline
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Boston
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Removing NOT replacing handlebars

I just bought my first bike, '14 FXDB. I like the miniapes for now but I do not like the chrome. I've contacted a local powder coating shop in the Boston area and they said they would take care of making the bars matte black along with some other small pieces for about $75. My question is, how difficult is it to remove and put back the same bars? I have pretty much zero electrical/wiring knowledge. I can turn a wrench but thats as far as I go.
 
  #2  
Old 09-10-2014, 11:55 AM
JDisME's Avatar
JDisME
JDisME is offline
Tourer
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Bloomingdale, IL
Posts: 251
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I have the same bike and personally, the wiring running through the bars doesn't seem like a big deal, as much as the throttle assembly. I've always been super paranoid about screwing that up when replacing bars or grips.

Figure you have the bolts on the dogbone clamp, a few screws for the controls on each side and grip removal, which can be a PITA sometimes.

Then the throttle (shudders), and disconnecting the wires in the frame, under the tank I believe and carefully puling them through the bars.

I'm sure putting it all back together is worse haha.

Grats on the new ride, BTW!
 

Last edited by JDisME; 09-10-2014 at 11:58 AM.
  #3  
Old 09-10-2014, 11:57 AM
mattVA's Avatar
mattVA
mattVA is offline
Stellar HDF Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,064
Received 92 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

It's the same as replacing them which I think you've figured out by now minus running new clutch and throttle cables (does your bike have throttle or is it electric?)

I just jumped into this two weeks ago it isn't all that hard but you'll need to know some things. Hopefully you have a manual?
 
  #4  
Old 09-10-2014, 12:03 PM
JoeDanger617's Avatar
JoeDanger617
JoeDanger617 is offline
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Boston
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mattVA
It's the same as replacing them which I think you've figured out by now minus running new clutch and throttle cables (does your bike have throttle or is it electric?)

I just jumped into this two weeks ago it isn't all that hard but you'll need to know some things. Hopefully you have a manual?
I understand what you mean by it being the same as replacing them, but its not quite becuase they are the same size. If I moved up to 16 inch bars I would be opening a whole new can of worms.
 
  #5  
Old 09-10-2014, 12:59 PM
mattVA's Avatar
mattVA
mattVA is offline
Stellar HDF Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,064
Received 92 Likes on 72 Posts
Default

The electrical isn't all that bad. You'll need to learn how to disassemble an AMP connector and a Deutsch connector. Real easy if you watch a video. I use a hairpin for the AMP connector, and something like a needle for the Deutsch (I think thats what it is, i forget if its Deutsch or something else, either way it was easy to take apart). The idea is to use your phone to take pictures of those to aid re-assembly before you disassemble. The wires are stuffed in the neck of the frame. I accessed them by pulling the grommets off both sides and fishing them out carefully.

Your brake lever actuates a brake switch. It's a little rubber boot. Take a strong flashlight and look at the gap on your lever to the switch housing with the lever pulled in and you'll see the boot. You have to avoid tearing this when the lever is removed. Also in the manual.

There's some good videos on YouTube to get you started on what's involved. Ask questions once you've read up a bit more and it can all be explained. Hard to type all the steps up. Easier shown than explained kinda thing.
 
  #6  
Old 09-10-2014, 02:38 PM
iDodgimus's Avatar
iDodgimus
iDodgimus is offline
Road Master
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

apparently the newer canbus system uses electrical connectors that fit thru the bars so it shouldn't be very hard at all...

it's the same as replacing the bars without replacing the cables - lots of write ups around.

i wouldn't try to run the throttle cable through the bars
 
  #7  
Old 09-10-2014, 08:53 PM
Crustysalmon's Avatar
Crustysalmon
Crustysalmon is offline
Intermediate
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by iDodgimus
apparently the newer canbus system uses electrical connectors that fit thru the bars so it shouldn't be very hard at all...

it's the same as replacing the bars without replacing the cables - lots of write ups around.

i wouldn't try to run the throttle cable through the bars
Yup. Canbus on '13 and newer models. I replaced my bars on my 14 Street Bob and it isn't that hard. The Canbus connectors unplug under the tank, and slide through 1.25" bars with ease. When I was re-installing, I used the vacuum cleaner method to suck a length of ribbon through the bars, tape on the end of the harness and connectors and pull through back through.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gilbert_roadking
Touring Models
19
03-08-2015 09:58 AM
rippertoo
General Harley Davidson Chat
5
08-26-2014 09:47 PM
Kustrud
Dyna Glide Models
9
03-18-2014 02:02 PM
CJP2876
Sportster Models
3
06-07-2012 07:43 AM
SeniorChief56
General Harley Davidson Chat
3
07-27-2009 07:20 PM



Quick Reply: Removing NOT replacing handlebars



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:32 AM.